Gourmet Walks on Chocolate

How to Eat Chocolate Every Day and Stay Thin!

2012-01-15T20:17:00.000-08:00

The #1 question we get as a Gourmet Walks Chocolate Tour Guides is “How is it you don't weigh 400 pounds?” This month we’re venturing into women’s magazines territory with our tips on how to enjoy gourmet chocolate daily without gaining weight. No, we don’t pop diet pills or get our stomachs stapled or spend our evenings on the treadmill. But for the most part, we eat chocolate every day and we’re happy with our weight.

1) Eat only the Best Chocolate you Can Afford – This is essential. Fine chocolate tastes better and is generally better for you – no preservatives, no artificial ingredients, less sugar. If you spend $10 or more on a gourmet chocolate bar, you are more likely to savor every bite and make it last rather than demolish it in one sitting. When you indulge in sugary candy bars, they usually don’t satisfy and you find yourself eating more and more.

Adam Smith, slim proprietor of Fog City News, says “With fine chocolate there is so much more flavor and nuance to it than say a bag of M&M’s. I always encourage customers to think about quality over quantity. So folks should resolve to eat less-but-better chocolate in 2012!” It’s Adam’s job to taste chocolate each and every day. And yet, he and his staff members are surprisingly trim.

2) Slow Down – I am a slow eater, and while my husband might say I talk too much, the benefit is I eat less than my dining companions. It honestly makes me cringe when I see someone devour a box of truffles without pausing even to figure out the flavor names.

Nicole is a Gourmet Walks Tour Guide who eats chocolate every day, and also samples the city’s finest baked goods and pastries on a regular basis. She is the closest thing to a cupcake connoisseur I know, and yet can only be described as thin. She says, “I eat slowly and never eat past full.”

John is a Gourmet Walks Tour Guide and part time sales associate at Scharffen Berger. He says, “When it comes to great chocolate - a little goes a long way. I used to wonder why I was compelled to plow through a #1 box of See's nuts and chews, but then I discovered gourmet chocolate. I'm now literally surrounded by chocolate for sometimes hours a day, but I don't need a pound of it to get that blissful feeling of chocolate satisfaction.”

3) Dark Chocolate Bars Most of the Time – When I say I eat chocolate every day, about 90% of that chocolate is in bar form. Gourmet truffles are undeniably delicious, but let’s be real…you just can’t eat that much sweet milk chocolate and fresh cream every day, even if it is organic! I save truffles for special occasions and treat them as desserts, served up on white china after a nice dinner. But fine chocolate bars are a daily indulgence – as long as it’s dark chocolate.

Dark chocolate (not milk) contains antioxidants, and that's where almost all the health benefits lie. Once these studies started coming out, dark chocolate sales (along with red wine) have steadily improved in the U.S. It doesn’t mean that milk chocolate isn’t worth eating. But if you’re interested in health and maintaining your weight, then make milk chocolate a special treat just a few days a week. Soon, your palate will adjust and the average candy bar will taste as sugary as a Pixie Stick.

4) Eat Only the Baked Goods YOU Make – This one I owe to Michael Pollan. In his Food Rules he says if you only eat desserts you make (rather than store-bought cookies and cupcakes) then you’ll eat a lot less of them. ("Eat all the junk you want as long as you cook it yourself.") Plus, you’ll feel good about what you’re eating because you know what’s in it! So indulge your inner domestic goddess and make a chocolate torte or homemade brownies. I know you won’t have enough time to do this very often, so don’t worry about it and enjoy when you do.

Oh, and what happens when that chocolate torte turns out to feed 16 people and your family of 4 only made a dent in it? Give it away. After I’ve had 2 servings of the dessert, I find it another home. Currently that means my au pair and her friends. Everyone leaves happy.

5) When You Have No Choice, Then Make it a Salad Night – Some days I have no choice but to indulge. For instance, I’m judging the San Francisco Chocolate Salon. Or even worse, I’m spending the day at the Fancy Food Show. This means unlimited chocolate, cheese, cookies, brownies and more over a 7-hour period.

After a day of excess, my body tells me exactly what to do. It craves a salad, or sushi, or a tofu quinoa salad followed by a spin class. It’s exactly the opposite from the rich, creamy tastes I’ve soaked up all day. Does this qualify as binge eating? Maybe, but I’m pretty sure it will keep you from gaining that chocolate weight and make you feel better the next day. These are my tricks.

6) Not Just For Dessert – My favorite time to eat dark chocolate is mid-afternoon, just as my energy is starting to lag. When it represents food and not dessert, I’m not expecting something sweet and I’m open to the wide realm of flavor profiles. I don’t overeat and I’m happy with just a few fine squares.

Honestly, eating a 70% plus chocolate bar for dessert can be a bit of a disappointment. It’s not going to taste sweet and so you’ll crave something else sweet and then you’ll end up overeating once more. Sounds like a viscious cycle that will end in a Snackwell overdose.

7) Think European – It’s challenging enough to lead Chocolate Tours, but how about being married to a chocolatier? Can you imagine the temptation? Take one look at Jacky Recchiuti (who runs Recchiuti Confections with husband Michael) and you’ll know she doesn’t lounge around popping bon bons in front of cooking shows all day.

Jackie Burrell, of The San Jose Mercury News, recently spoke to the Recchiutis about their very French lifestyle. “They shop every couple of days, European style, for what’s fresh and seasonal. They walk everywhere. And they revel in all the flavors and experiences the Bay Area has to offer.”

I’ve never been in better shape than when I’ve lived in cities where walking is the best way to get around. That’s why I centered my business on gourmet walking tours, rather than tours by bus or limo. We want our guests to see everything and to get the chance to walk off all that chocolate. As for my tour guides, they all agree that without the walking aspect of tour guiding, all those chocolate samples would linger on the hips far too long.

Have a tip on how to eat chocolate every day and stay thin?
Please share.

Don't Miss The Sixth Course

2011-11-19T14:08:00.000-08:00

Judging a Chocolate Salon is no easy task. Yes, it's lots of "free chocolate," but not all of it is good and after an hour you'll long for salad and a spin class. But what keeps me coming back is discovering new chocolatiers who have something special to offer a competitive Bay Area chocolate scene. At Taste TV's Fall Chocolate Salon on November 13, I had the pleasure of tasting some decadent truffles from Bridget Labus and Gianina Serrano of Sixth Course. Coming soon, to the Mission district!

Bridget and Gianina have solid experience in Pastry at fine hotels and restaurants in San Francisco. Bridget has been Executive Pastry Chef at several 5 star luxury hotels, including the Four Seasons and the St. Regis. Gianina has had similar experience, focusing on Pastry at high volume fine dining restaurants (with the addition of courses in cheesemaking). It's no surprise, then, to find Sixth Course on the truffle cart at the always elegant Acquerello. But soon Sixth Course will be making the leap from luxe to edgy, as they are in the process of building out a boutique at 15th & Capp in the Mission. Not confined to truffles, the spot will sell petits fours, entremets, semifreddos, tea and coffee. (Stumped on "entremet"? see here.) Since San Francisco has seen more chocolate shop closings than openings in the past year, I am excited about the new space. Before long, our Chocolate Tours will be heading from Hayes Valley into the Mission and beyond.

For a new company, Sixth Course has a wide array of tempting flavors in three categories: Caramels, Wine & Spirits, Chef's Choice. They are sold in boxes of six, in simple brown packaging made from recycled materials. Most are round and generously sized. Booze and chocolate lovers, this is the brand for you. They work with premier local distilleries (like St. George) to create some delectable flavors, including the Whiskey, Neat and Raspberry Cosmopolitan. There are 6 different caramels on the menu, and we sampled both the Chai Tea and the Ceylon Cinnamon. The most unusual was Honey Fennel Pollen, a balanced blend of seasonal Bay Area flavors. The classic Hazelnut Praline was also delicious, flavored with just a touch of Frangelico.

The other Salon judges must have agreed with Gourmet Walks, because Sixth Course ended up taking home 2 Gold Medals (including Best in Salon), 4 Silver, and 3 Bronze. I caught up with Bridget after the salon to get a better sense of their inspiration:

1. What chocolatiers have inspired your work? (Bay Area or beyond)
Ewald Notter, Stephane Leroux, Andrew Shotts (Garrison Confections), Paul A. Young (London), Ramon Morato (Spain), Jean-Pierre Wybauw (Callebaut).....the list goes on and on....

2. Where do you find some of your favorite desserts in SF? What restaurants and pastry chefs?
Depending on the mood, a soft serve ice cream cone at Bi Rite ( can't be beat !) or plated dessert at Redd in Yountville ( always a pleasure to see and taste). Our go-to cake shop is Miette in SF ( love the look of their classic cakes, and the taste and textures are always right on the money!). Bouchon macaroons are also one of our favorites.

3. What are your favorite dessert cookbooks?
Chez Panisse Desserts. love love love fruit in a dessert!

4. What is the significance of your company's name?
The sixth course is typically the dessert course and our logo is the place setting. This idea came from one of our Grandmother's cookbooks from the 30's.

5. What is the biggest challenge to starting an artisan food business in SF?
Getting your name out there. Exercising patience and realizing that everything takes 5X as long as you think it will. Navigating the bureaucracy of the permitting system for our build out.

Have you tried Sixth Course? For now, look for them online and at Avedanos, Rainbow Grocery and the 24th St Cheese Company. Let us know what you think!

Gourmet Walks at Christopher Elbow

2011-09-16T13:15:00.000-07:00

Just as the weather is getting sunny and warm-ish in San Francisco, shops and restaurants are telling us it's fall. For my local Starbucks, that means the return of the outrageously sweet Pumpkin Spice Latte. At Whole Foods, Gravenstein apples and pumpkins replace the gourmet S'Mores displays. Most Bay Area chocolate shops do not switch up their flavors very often, with the exception of our Hayes Valley favorite, Christopher Elbow. On Thursday 9/16, Kansas City based chocolatier Chris Elbow unveiled his fall chocolate lineup, along with an exciting new ice cream line and a Chocolate Ale.

Christopher Elbow was a pastry chef for many years before specializing in chocolate, and this shows in his approach to flavor development. Elbow explained that he looks for taste combinations he enjoys in food and then attempts to replicate them with chocolate, using a proprietary Valhrona blend for his couverture. As for bizarre flavors, he said "If I try something and don't want another, it's a good sign the combination doesn't work." (Yeah, just take a look in my Chocolate Drawer, where bacon/mushroom/olive bars languish for months.) Gourmet Walks tour guides found the Pumpkin Spice, Brown Butter & Molasses and Banana Curry perfectly balanced and, as always, perfectly lovely. The Banana Curry was my personal favorite, based on his popular Bananas Foster but made a little more exotic with a touch of curry. The Brown Butter & Molasses was rich, sweet and creamy - just the thing for a foggy SF evening, perhaps with a tawny port.

Since we know the magic Christopher Elbow creates with truffles, the most exciting part of the night was sampling his new Glacé Artisan Ice Cream. Elbow worked hard on his ice cream concept this summer, opening up two different shops in downtown Kansas City and a new production facility. His Glacé ice cream shops are separate from Christopher Elbow Chocolates, with distinct branding, and regularly feature about 22 different flavors. Just as with his chocolate, the ingredients are high quality, fresh, local and organic. On the menu for Thursday night was a Fresh Mint Chip, Goat Cheese & Honey, Rosemary Caramel, Venezuelan Spiced Chocolate and a Pineapple Cilantro Sorbet. My favorite was the Goat Cheese & Honey, followed by the Sorbet - a flavor inspired by a taco!

When will Glacé be available to San Francisco ice cream lovers? (A spoiled bunch we are, despite summer fog and wind that make pots of tea more appealing.) The Hayes Valley shop plans to start selling pints beginning in October or November. Eventually, Elbow hopes to add scoops as well as a Sundae Menu. Thinking hot fudge and maraschino cherries? Oh no, gourmet toppings more in line with Fraiche and some of the city's other high end yogurt shops, I'm guessing.

The last treat we sampled at Christopher Elbow was his new Chocolate Ale. Elbow collaborated with hometown brewery Boulevard to make just 1600 cases of this special beer. The beer is initially infused with nibs, and then cacao beans are added for more flavor in the fermentation tank. The Chocolate Ale was a huge hit in Kansas City, selling out quickly all over town. And it's not as strange as it sounds. Mainstream beer makers (like Sam Adams) are now adding chocolate to their stouts and Recchiuti's chocolate and beer pairing box is one of his most popular. We enjoyed the Ale, but as Chocolate Tour guides, we were already thinking about getting our hands on more Banana Curry truffles.

Have you tried the new Christopher Elbow fall flavors? Let us know what you think!

Dandelion Chocolate

2011-06-22T13:55:00.001-07:00

There is a new bean-to-bar chocolate maker in town, and this one has a name we can all pronounce. It's Dandelion Chocolate, the inspiration of two Stanford pals who sold their tech company, Plaxo, and reinvented themselves as chocolate makers. About 1 1/2 years ago, Todd Masonis and Cameron Ring started tinkering around with different types of cacao beans in their San Jose garage. (I love the image of a Silicon Valley garage, once crammed with computers and nerdy programmers, remodeled for antique winnowing machines and melangeurs.) Now they are plotting a factory/retail shop/cafe in the Mission at 740 Valencia, just a stone's throw from Bi-Rite and Tartine.

Unlike the other big names in the local bean-to-bar chocolate scene, Dandelion is a micro-batch chocolate maker. (As in, roasting 1 kilo of beans at a time - something like making 3 batches of chocolate chip cookies for your child's bake sale.) The single origin bars we tried (70% Madagascar and 70% Venezuela) made it clear this is for true dark chocolate lovers. The flavors are intense and the texture is not as smooth and creamy as popular European bars like Valhrona and Cluizel. At the moment, Dandelion uses only nibs and sugar in their chocolate. No soy lecithin, cocoa butter or vanilla. But sweet tooths, don't despair. Plans are in place for building a cocoa butter press and enhancing the line to include semisweet bars and even milk chocolate.

Dandelion is working on a new look, including logo and packaging. In the meantime, the lovely bar wrappers are reminiscent of Mast Brothers - recycled cotton from India's garment industry. They also plan to start a sourcing initiative, but for now their beans come by way of a broker. If you are lucky enough to get your hands on one of Dandelion's bars, you'll find they are incredibly fresh and that's a key advantage to sticking with micro-batch chocolate makers. (The bar we sampled on our Chocolate Tour was made just 24 hours prior!)

Oh, and here's how... Make it a point to visit the next New Taste Marketplace in Potrero Hill, scheduled for July 16. This monthly community market works on a sliding scale entrance fee, giving you access to some of the best up-and-coming food artisans in SF. While chatting with Dandelion, check out SodaCraft for seasonal yeast fermented soda, NeoCocoa for her new peppermint truffles and Nute's Cupcakes for cupcakes with an Asian flair.

Have you tried Dandelion? Please do, and let us know what you think!

The Year in Chocolate: 2010

2011-01-07T14:40:00.000-08:00

The Year in Chocolate
Bay Area 2010
1. Openings
Let’s start out with some happy news. Chuck Siegel no longer has a commute. Charles Chocolates opened a flagship shop in Westfield Mall this year, closing down all Emeryville operations. Even bigger news, Charles will soon be expanding into a 5000 square foot shop and kitchen that has even Mayor Newsom celebrating. On a smaller scale (a little bit grimy), fine chocolate made its way into the Tenderloin with the opening of Hooker’s Sweet Treats in June. All you salted caramel addicts, his version is among the best in the city. Suburban sidenote – Marin chocolate lovers will finally have somewhere worthy of a visit. Chocolatier Blue has leased space in Strawberry Village, with an opening slated for early 2011.

2. Closures
We were sad to say goodbye to the Maiden Lane location of Alegio Chocolate. Now it’s a trek to Berkeley for the avant garde Enrico Rovira chocolates and Claudio Corallo bars. (Tip: roommate Manika Jewelry is still open, and with Valentine’s Day just around the corner…) In June, Seneca Klassen announced the closure of its Fillmore Street Bittersweet shop, citing rent disputes. Though nothing beats a Bittersweet hot chocolate, Citizen Cake re-opening around the corner is yummy consolation. And finally, Mary Loomas of Saratoga Chocolates quietly closed her San Francisco location at the end of December (in the old and beloved Joseph Schmidt shop).

3. Comfort Chocolate
From the looks of the average Bay Area restaurant dessert menu, comfort desserts just never go out of style. High class donuts at the end of a meal – who can resist? There is a definite trend in comfort chocolate flavors, with toffee leading the way. Gourmet Walks guides are loving the Chocolat Moderne Kashmir Bar (55% dark with toffee, cardamom, cinnamon and cloves), Xocolatl de David 72% dark milk salted caramel bar and the Patric PB&J Bar (jelly flavor only comes from the fruity notes of the cacao beans). You’ll likely find all three at Fog City News. As for comfort truffles, consider the Norman Love Vanilla Cupcake truffle (Cocoa Bella) and Christopher Elbow’s new Maple Walnut (Elbow Hayes Valley).

4. Micro-batch
Smaller is pretty much always considered better in the world of chocolate, wine, beer and other artisan foods. The concept of micro-batch chocolate is not new. After Scharffen Berger paved the way, Steve DeVries took pride in being “100 Years Behind the Times” and creating micro-batches in 2005. Patric, Taza, Amano, Mast Brothers and Rogue soon followed. One tour guide’s favorite micro-batch chocolate from this year is Rogue Chocolatier’s Piura Bar – made from just 4 bags of cacao beans purchased from a small organic farm in Piura, Peru. Savor the taste….you might not find it again.

5. More of the Bizarre
While comfort chocolate flavors are big, we still haven’t seen the end of bizarre flavor combinations in both truffles and bars. Bacon is old news, though Vosges continues to milk the success of its Bacon Bar with even a bacon chocolate chip pancake mix! My top choice for weirdest flavor of the year was East Bay Michael Mischer’s barbeque truffle, often carried by Cocoa Bella. It tastes like a smoky barbeque sauce and chocolate. Try that one with a microbrew.

6. Extreme Pairings
Foodies once thought pairing chocolate with anything but port was a mistake. Local chocolate companies are now embracing unusual pairings and from our perspective, consumers love it (especially the young ones). This year Recchiuti launched boxes for Beer Pairings, Whisky Pairings and Spirits Pairings. His suggestion – a tarragon grapefruit ganache with absinthe. On the extreme side, TCHO even sponsored a tequila and chocolate pairing night. Ugh, I’ll pass on that one.

7. Revamped Packaging
Vosges is the queen of sexy packaging and, until this year, the only chocolate maker I know of with a picture of the owner/creator on the back. Patric Chocolate, based in Missouri, said farewell to its nondescript small brown bars and launched a splashy new wave-ish design with his photo on the cover. Yes, he has a purple face but I think that was the idea. And the titles of his bars almost sound like a teenager’s text message, as in “PBJ OMG.” I also want to point out Rococo’s beautiful new packaging, even though founder Chantal Coady neglected to include the name of the company on front of the bar!

8. Pies, etc.
Are you tired yet of hearing predictions on what will be the next cupcake? The 2010 consensus is the pie and chocolate will most definitely play a role. Mission Pie (so ahead of this trend) makes a yummy chocolate cream pie. But my favorite pie variation is the whoopie pie, the dense New England treat that is finally making its way to California. Susie Cakes is serving whoopie pies for birthday parties and even (believe it) weddings. When summer rolls in, be sure to check out Michael Recchiuti’s unique whoopie pies, laced with candied orange peel, coated in dark chocolate and filled with burnt caramel buttercream.

9. An Education
More and more local chocolate makers are opening their doors and kitchens for chocolate making classes. It’s not enough that we consume lots of gourmet chocolate; we want to learn how to make it! Coco-luxe charges $160/pp for a “Build Your Own Chocolate Bar” class and you’ll take home 6 tasty bars. (Birthday party blues? Kids 10 and up welcome) Saratoga Chocolates, Cocoa Delice and Charles Chocolate have all offered different types of classes in the past. At Gourmet Walks, you can combine a Chocolate Tour with a chocolate truffle making class from SOMA based Baking Arts. A full day of indulgence!

10. Newsworthy
The big story of 2010 is that the price of chocolate is expected to go up, way up. This will primarily affect candy bar companies who shall remain nameless – not the good stuff we regularly sample on our tours! And it is a reminder why it’s important to support small batch chocolate makers who are paying cacao workers fair wages or even sharing the profits. Closer to home, John Scharffenberger took a position as CEO of Hodo Soy’s gourmet organic tofu company, based in Oakland. (Psst…that is some good tofu!) And finally, TCHO is stirring up a battle vs. Guittard for a starring role on fine dessert menus around San Francisco and beyond.

To taste some of these trends, take a Chocolate Tour with Gourmet Walks! Offered Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays and Saturdays year round.

Talking Chocolate with Mary Loomas

2010-08-14T10:06:00.000-07:00

Last Friday Mary Loomas of Saratoga Chocolates joined Gourmet Walks on our third Celebrity Chocolate Tour in San Francisco. Our guests have had a great time on these special summer tours. (If you missed them, there are still spots on our last Celebrity Tour with Chuck Siegel of Charles Chocolates on September 4th!) Mary brought some of her own tasty samples and chimed in with feedback as we visited seven different downtown chocolate boutiques. Mary's kitchen and original location is, of course, in Saratoga on Big Basin Way but she also has a quaint shop in the Castro.

I caught up with Mary before the tour to get a feeling for her position on some classic chocolate topics. And I also discovered a wonderful recipe for those who want to enjoy chocolate without loading up on cream and sugar.

1. Chocolate and bacon - where do you stand?
Okay with me. Not my favorite. I make a smoked almond caramel that’ll knock your socks off. Something about the sweet, smokey and dark chocolate.

2. Wine and chocolate - do you mix and what are your favorite combos?
We have a line of chocolates made to pair with reds. We hold classes on wine and chocolate pairing. Many favorites but wine needs to be specifically paired.

3. Madagascar or Venezuala - what are your favorite origins when it comes to dark chocolate?
St. Dominique by Cocoa Barry is my favorite: beans are from Dominican Republic.

4. Guittard or TCHO - who is now the local bean to bar chocolate maker of choice?
E. Guittard is great. TCHO is getting there. I’m working with them on a custom blend but they have some work to do to really be there. Try Amano (Utah’s not that far away) for something amazing.

5. Flavonoids and antioxidants - do you believe the hype about chocolate and health benefits?
I’m living proof. Dropped my cholesterol by leaps with chocolate, wine and exercise. I work with the Cardio department at El Camino Hospital and teach classes with them on heart healthy diets…it’s true…..

Mary's Guilt-free Chocolate Recipe: Le Jardin de Couers

1/2 cup Chopped Dried Apricots
1/4 cup Chopped Candied Ginger
1/2 cup Chopped Candied Orange Peel
1/2 cup Whole Roasted Almonds (no salt)
1/2 cup Whole Shelled Roasted Pistachio Nuts (no salt)
1 pound Dark Chocolate (your favorite to eat, preferably 70% cacao or more)
Using tempered chocolate. Pipe chocolate directly into heart shaped molds or pipe chocolate onto waxed or parchment paper, 2-4 rows at a time. Jiggle to remove bubbles.

Decorate w/ 1 each of the fruits and nuts Let set in cool location. Store in airtight container at room temperature and product can be enjoyed over several weeks.

Note: Tempering or precrystallizing is to get the cocoa butter and chocolate in the most stable form - known in the industry as V form. This produces the characteristic "snap" when you bite into it and a shiny (molded) or satin (enrobed) finish. Well tempered chocolate also does not immediately melt in your fingers. Unstable or untempered chocolate has a melting point of 65F. Tempered chocolate has a melting point of 95F. Generally the process of tempering is melting the chocolate including all of its fatty acid crystals by heating the chocolate to 110-131F. Next we form seed crystals by cooling the chocolate to between 79-84F while continuously stirring (to ensure even temperature). Lastly, we warm the chocolate back up to melt unwanted crystals and hold temper. This is between 89-90F for dark chocolate and 86-87F for white and milk.

Pipe chocolate directly into heart shaped molds or pipe chocolate onto waxed or parchment paper, 2-4 rows at a time. Jiggle to remove bubbles.

Decorate w/ 1 each of the fruits and nuts. Let set in cool location. Store in airtight container at room temperature. Will last several months.

The Xocolate Bar

2010-07-05T14:46:00.000-07:00

If Mexican artist Frida Kahlo owned a chocolate shop, it would probably look something like this. Vermillion walls, gold trim, a crystal chandelier. Chocolate medallions painted with luster dust sit next to hand crafted jewelry in a glass case. Multi-colored "frisky housewife" aprons lie next to long strips of chocolate banana jerky. All of this on Berkeley's Solano Avenue, an adorable 26 block stretch of restaurants and shops in between Albany and downtown Berkeley.

Malena Lopez-Maggi opened The Xocolate Bar with partner Clive Brown in July of 2008, after making chocolates in a San Rafael kitchen since 2006. The Xocolate Bar has been a regular at the San Francisco Chocolate Salons, picking up many awards including "Best in Show." They use organic, local and seasonal ingredients whenever possible, including rangpur lime grown by a neighbor and coffee beans from Ritual Coffee Roasters. They change flavors from week to week, and when I visited at the beginning of summer, rhubarb was just coming out of the kitchen. For vegans, there are many options, which makes sense in a neighborhood where there is even a new vegan fast food spot.

The Xocolate Bar plays with the notion of chocolate as an aphrodisiac, from their Make Out Truffle (with aphrodisiac ingredients) to their molded pieces in the shape of women's breasts and booties. It's a clever niche for them to fill, since the average Union Square chocolate shop is well buttoned up. Women planning a slightly naughty bachelorette party would have a blast picking erotic chocolates from the shop, or working with Malena on custom creations. For example, when SATC2 came out Malena created the "Sex and the Titty" truffle - dark chocolate breasts filled with organic cranberry-lime ganache inspired by Carrie's cosmos. I'd take one of those over the movie any day!

I sampled The Xocolate Bar's incredibly rich sipping chocolate, made simply with bittersweet chocolate and water, $2.75 for one potent 4 ounce shot. I then chose the prettiest of the fresh truffles, from the organic coconut to the Aztec Amor to the passionfruit heart. It's almost a shame to eat them because the truffle molds used by the Xocolate Bar are so unique. My favorite was the salted honey, which came right from the small working kitchen behind the shop's counter. Malena uses Marin Wildflower Honey from Marshall's Honey Farm, and just two other ingredients: sea salt and dark chocolate. Another sweet option is the rangpur lime, not overly tangy since the rangpur lime is actually a mix between a lemon and a mandarin orange. For budding amateur chocolatiers, Malena actually posts most of her recipes on her blog, idreamofchocolate.com.

Want to learn more about Malena and the Xocolate Bar? Gourmet Walks is planning our second Celebrity Chocolate Tour on Saturday, July 17 at 1pm. Malena will be accompanying the tour and sharing her thoughts on the art of making gourmet chocolate and making it a business. If you're very good, she'll be sharing her own samples too! Click here to purchase tickets for the July 17th Tour.

Afternoon Pick-Me-Up

2010-06-30T14:36:00.000-07:00

Hooker's Sweet Treats. It looks like Martha Stewart has ventured into the TenderNob and transformed 442 Hyde into a farmhouse chic coffee and chocolate bar. Cobalt blue walls, antique wooden tables, a tiny open kitchen and shelves with curious flea market finds (like Cracker Jack Boxes from before I was born). Caramels come loose in brown waxed paper bags or wrapped in heavy brown paper and twine. The design elements are spot on, and the caramels are even better.

I've complained about this before...poor Gourmet Walks tour guides try a lot of salted caramels. Many of them are just so so, and there are only a few that absolutely must be sampled. Hooker's is one of them. We love that David "Hooker" Williams uses intense dark chocolate (72%) since so many salt caramels are milk. And the salt he uses is flaked right on top - Welsch lightly smoked sea salt. Ingredients are also Michael Pollan approved: agave nectar for sweetener, organic locally sourced fair trade chocolate. At $2 a piece, I'd spring for the 20 for $10 and invite friends over. They won't last long.

Gourmet Walks will come here for the caramels, but coffee fans won't be disappointed by the fresh roasted Sightglass Coffee. Started by Blue Bottle alums, Sightglass is the place to go when you find yourself in the outer limits of SOMA, and now, the TenderNob. The Hooker's Mocha is a beautiful partnership. And then there are the bread puddings, inspired by Williams's childhood in Lousiana. But why fill up on bread puddings when there are luscious caramels to devour?

Hooker's Sweet Treats is at 442 Hyde Street, open from 8-5 Monday through Friday and 10-2 on Saturdays.

Perfect Afternoon in the Haight

2010-06-21T16:13:00.000-07:00

1. Denim shopping at Villains Vault
2. Summer Sale at Behind the Post Office
3. Dinner and a cocktail at the Alembic
4. Chocolate and wine pairings at Coco-luxe

Let’s talk about #4…my tour guides and I gathered at Coco-luxe last Thursday to sample their chocolate pairings with 122 West Wines. San Francisco industry folks may wonder - how can a chocolate shop serve wine? It involved some crafty maneuvering. Stephanie Marcon, chief chocolatier behind Coco-luxe, married Stan Bradbury, who decided to create a winery. The two worked the funky San Francisco system to get approved for a Tasting Room license in the Haight. The result is delightful, and something that no other chocolate shop can offer right now!

Longitude 122 West marks the home of Napa and Sonoma counties, where all the wine’s grapes are sourced. 122 West currently bottles 5 different wines, all available at Coco-luxe for tasting. We began with a light Napa sangiovese, followed by a food-friendly Napa zinfandel. We then sampled a Russian River syrah and a durif, and finished with a Sonoma port style wine.

Each taste of wine is accompanied by a small piece of dark chocolate and a truffle. The truffles are trademark Coco-luxe, inspired by Stephanie’s nostalgic desserts from childhood: german chocolate, malted milk, devil’s food, shoo-fly caramel and gingerbread. A favorite was the shoo-fly caramel. We taste salted caramels at least once a week on our tours (poor Gourmet Walks tour guides!), so the addition of molasses for the shoo-fly flavor is a refreshing change. The double cherry with the syrah was another excellent pairing, with the cherry truffle flavors drawing out the black cherry and cassis notes in the wine.

The Haight may not be at the top of a foodie's list for gourmet experiences, but the Coco-luxe boutique is a chic but warm haven away from the panhandlers and the fog. Bright orange sherbert walls, shiny white countertops, the smell of drinking chocolate and wine. It’s the perfect end to a well planned afternoon in the Haight. We’re happy to include the Coco-luxe wine tasting experience on our Limo Tours and private events. Please contact us to learn more at info@gourmetwalks.com

Tour Guides Take on Tempering

2010-02-22T09:43:00.000-08:00

This past Superbowl Sunday, rather than tending a chili and shopping for beer, I took my tour guides to a chocolate cooking class with Richard Festen of Baking Arts. Chocolate thermometers in hand, we stirred and dipped and re-heated and stirred again to create some delectable dark chocolate truffles and cocoa logs. Richard teaches his baking classes out of a small and stylish kitchen/loft in SOMA and keeps the groups small enough so you'll get plenty of attention and experience. Lucky for us, Richard had recently studied at Chicago's Callebaut Chocolate Academy to further expand his chocolate offerings. Other classes include pies, croissants, eclairs, cream puffs and the ubiquitous French Macaron. Take one look at his web site and the fabulous cakes he has created and you'll know you are in good hands.

It's been said that the Type A personality is a pre-requisite for mastering the precise art of baking. I hire my tour guides for their effervescent enthusiasm for chocolate and their vibrant personalities - not necessarily for their patience. As we tried to get our bowls of chocolate to that magical sweet spot of 88 to 91 degrees, mumbled curses louder and louder. A chocolate thermometer reads in 1 degree increments since a small difference in degree makes a big difference in the final result. Why not just melt chocolate and pop a strawberry in it, like you do with most home baking recipes? We learned by experience that untempered chocolate will bloom quickly and lack shine. It will be messy to serve and won't snap sharply the way a good chocolate bar does. Most large scale chocolate producers have tempering machines, but for the home baker, there is no choice but to learn how to temper.

When the chocolate at last reached the right temperature, we took our balls of ganache and dipped them in with a chocolate dipping fork, taking care to tap the bowl and remove the excess so our truffles did not develop "hips." After dipping, we rolled each truffle in shaved dark chocolate or white chocolate, an easy way to hide mistakes for the amateur chocolate maker. We used the same method for cocoa logs, also rolling each in powdered sugar and then laying to rest. We found that after making just about 4 or 5 chocolates, the temperature dipped too low and we were back to re-heating and stirring and tempering once more.

As chocolate tour guides, we are always curious about the type of chocolate bakers choose to use. For Richard, it is Guittard's 72% chocolate wafers. Although he had made the ganache in advance for us (since it needs a day to rest), he demonstrated his method at the end and let us try our hands at piping what would become the cocoa logs. Again, precision was key. Richard used his chocolate thermometer and his digital scale to ensure that the ganache was smooth, creamy and lump-free. That didn't stop us from pushing too hard with the piping or not hard enough so that our logs resembled lumpy caterpillars.

In the end we all graduated from Chocolate 1 with a box of slightly imperfect chocolates to take home and show off. But to bring to a Superbowl Party? Doubtful, we know by now not to waste fine chocolate! We also previewed the techniques learned in Chocolate 2 and Chocolate 3, from molding chocolate to using intricate transfer sheets to decorate the tops. Something to aspire to, but for now we will return to talking about chocolate and eating it as Gourmet Walks tour guides - letting the masters do the hard work.

Recipe: Baking Arts Cocoa Logs
yields approximately 30 pieces
2 oz bittersweet chocolate 64%, chopped
3 oz semisweet chocolate 55%, chopped
3 1/4 oz heavy cream (6 T)
1/2 oz light corn syrup (2 tsp)
1/2 oz butter, unsalted, room temp (1 T)
1 lb chocolate, tempered
2 cups powdered sugar, sifted

For the ganache: Place chopped chocolate in a medium sized bowl. Set aside.
Bring cream and corn syrup just to the boil while stirring. Pour over chopped chocolate and allow to sit for 2 minutes. Slowly stir with a whisk to begin creating the emulsion. Stir thoroughly to ensure the ganache is well mixed and emulsified.
Check the temperature. When the ganache reaches 95F, mix in the softened butter, stirring well. Let the ganache cool at room temperature undisturbed for about an hour or until it has cooled to below 74F.

Line a baking sheet with parchment. Scrape ganache into a large piping bag fitted with an Ateco #806 round tip. Pipe out even parallel lines of ganache. Set aside to dry overnight at room temperature. Cut into 1 1/4 inch lengths with a paring knife. Dip in tempered chocolate and roll in powdered sugar. Allow chocolate to set before storing cocoa logs at cool room temperature.

Aged Sake & Chocolate

2010-01-20T09:23:00.000-08:00

Chocolate & beer? Sake & cheese? Innovative pairings are all the rage. Today's foodie has no patience for rules that once gave us very little choice when dining. As in, if you're ordering fish, then only a glass of chardonnay will do. When I invited some neighbors over last week for sake and chocolate, they were intrigued. My objective was to gather reactions to a bottle of Hanahato Kijoshu, an aged dessert sake, that I picked up at True Sake on a recent Gourmet on Hayes Tour. (And make amends for the giant construction zone our street has become, thanks to our remodeling project.)

I had never tasted a dessert sake before, and neither had anyone at the party. When we poured it into mini sake glasses, we were surprised by the dark amber color. This can be explained by the fact that it is aged for 8 years, which is actually quite unusual for sake. According to sake expert John Gauntner in a recent SF Chronicle article, sake was commonly aged beginning in the 1600s in Japan but this changed in the Meiji era (1868) when brewers became taxed on what they brewed, not what they sold. It was to their advantage to sell quickly. He estimates that aged sakes are now less than 1% of the marketplace. Beau Timken, owner of True Sake, says "Look at the color. The darker the sake, the more expressive and full-bodied it will be."

At 17% alcohol, just a little of Hanahato Kijoshu will do. It can be served at room temperature or chilled, and I opted for chilled since as parties go on, a room temperature beverage becomes unpleasantly warm. I had an array of chocolates available for pairing from Recchiuti, Scharffen Berger and Christopher Elbow. (And for those who could stomach only a bit of the sake, I also offered a port and my favorite Dashe late harvest zinfandel.) As I always say on my tours, when you can get fine chocolate, putting a party together could not be simpler!

Many expected light floral or fruity notes to the sake, which would would have paired nicely with some of the lighter Recchiuti chocolates - like the lavender vanilla. But this sake is much more robust and complex, with a distinct caramel nutty taste that makes it an ideal match with dark, intense chocolates. It is sweet, but not anywhere near as sweet as the late harvest zinfandel. Some likened it more to a whiskey or a scotch. We thought it worked well with the Recchiuti burnt caramel, force noir, kona coffee and even the rose caramel. When paired with the Scharffen Berger single origin dark chocolate bars, like the 68% Camahogne from Grenada, this sake took on more of the dried fruit notes. Urbansake.com writes that the Hanahato Kijoshu would be excellent served over vanilla ice cream. No takers here! Overall, the sake was well received but 3/4 of the bottle still remains in my refrigerator, while the other wines were emptied quickly.

Hanahato Kijoshu is available at True Sake, which will also ship anywhere in California. A 500 ML bottle sells for $34. Give them a call at 415-355-9555. Scharffen Berger single origin bars are available for a limited time only at the Ferry Building Store.

Chocolate Visions

2009-11-29T13:27:00.000-08:00

The holiday shopping season has officially begun, and when in doubt, I choose the gift of chocolate. I know what I want - something local, handmade and incredibly delicious. But sometimes we get swayed by glitzy packaging and marketing claims, ignoring what is right in front of our eyes. Chocolate Visions has been making chocolate in the Santa Cruz Mountains long before the artisan chocolate craze hit the Bay Area. They may not have the slickest packaging, but their truffles and bars are sure to please anyone on your holiday list.

Lloyd and Lindy Martin create all of their chocolate by hand in their Scotts Valley kitchen. They are not afraid to experiment with bold flavors, and always use the finest ingredients. For instance, they spent over 6 months perfecting the flavor of their Rose truffle, finally selecting Turkish Rose Otto oil to enhance each bite. Their lavender truffle incorporates lavender and olive oil from Valencia Street Farm in nearby Aptos. For chocolate, the Martins primarily use e. Guittard. Although Lloyd attended chocolatier school 5 years ago, he taught himself how to make edible ink, cocoa butter and natural food coloring - all key elements to the intricate designs on each chocolate piece.

Our Chocolate Tours have been loving the new Chocolate Visions 3 oz bars, which debuted over the summer ($6.95 each). It's difficult to combine chocolate with lemon, but we think their Luscious Lemon, with applewood smoked almonds and candied meyer lemon, is a winner. Another tempting bar option is the Chocolate Visions Oh My Goodness Bar, a gourmet version of the classic Mr. Goodbar, with toasted coconut and honey roasted peanuts. Try them side by side and we're pretty sure you'll never go back to sugary, waxy candy bars again.

For those who still question the desire to combine chocolate with wine, Lindy Martin says "Just try it!" Chocolate Visions has worked directly with over 75 different California wineries to blend their wine with chocolate, and imprint each chocolate with the winery's logo. They prefer working with full bodied reds, like the Burrell School merlot and the Bartolo "super tuscan" - both available in their Winery Collection box ($21.95 for 12 pieces). We often sample these on our Chocolate & Wine Tours. They taste divine, and have the added bonus of lasting at least a month longer than the average truffle because of the wine.

If you're looking for something with a holiday theme, Chocolate Visions has just unveiled their Christmas Collection, with wintery flavors like meyer lemon olive oil, hazelnut and tangerine ($46.95 for 24 pieces). If you're close enough to Scotts Valley to make the trip, Chocolate Visions will be holding a Holiday Open House on December 12th from 1-5pm. Combine it with a trip to Richard Donnelly in Santa Cruz and you'll be done with chocolate holiday shopping well before the final hour!

Neo Cocoa

2009-06-23T10:12:00.000-07:00

The chocolate media darling of the year is undoubtedly Christine Doerr's Neo Cocoa. I first sampled these unique truffles at the San Francisco Chocolate Salon, where Neo Cocoa snagged a first place for "Best Truffle" and a second place for "Best Traditional Chocolates," "Top Artisan Chocolatier," "Most Luxurious Chocolate Experience," "New Product" and "Best in Salon." With accolades like that, how much higher can Neo Cocoa soar?

Since the Salon, Neo Cocoa was named "Best New Chocolates" by 7X7 Magazine and Doerr even appeared on Martha Stewart Living (radio). One explanation for the media frenzy is that, in an increasingly competitive world of artisan chocolatiers, Neo Cocoa chocolates offer something new. Christine Doerr has no use for couverture. Neo Cocoa chocolates are simply ganache, and for those whose idea of bliss is the creamy center of a chocolate, this is very good news. Like any good San Franciscan, Doerr insists on fresh local and organic ingredients: Guittard chocolate, Straus cream, Sweet Earth cocoa powder.

A graduate of the California Culinary Academy, Doerr has worked as a pastry chef for over ten years. After taking some time off to study graphic design, Doerr came back to the pastry world and started Neo Cocoa in November of 2008.

I purchased a small assortment of Neo Cocoa truffles from the Village Market in the Ferry Building. The flavors are simple yet sophisticated: ginger root, toasted coconut, crushed bittersweet nib, zested lime and almond butter & smoked sea salt. In other words, you won't find "fun flavors" like root beer, cupcake and peanut butter and jelly that are now in vogue. This suits me perfectly, as I prefer to taste chocolate first and then a bit of flavor enhancer. In all her chocolates, Doerr has a subtle touch and even the ginger root is not too overwhelming. My favorites were the bittersweet nib and the almond butter & smoked sea salt.

My only concern was that the boxes at the Village Market did not have an expiration date filled in. I am the kind of shopper who is obsessed with buying the freshest possible food - always digging back in the shelves to find the latest possible expiration date. I wondered if the truffles were as fresh as they could be, and really hope that Neo Cocoa starts including the expiration date. A good alternative for shoppers is to order directly from their web site.

While Neo Cocoa fans have got to be begging for some new flavors (and word is something is in development), I applaud the chocolate makers who do just a few things well. Scharffen Berger began with three simple bars. And we at Gourmet Walks are taking our time in creating our next tour! Wherever Neo Cocoa goes next, I'm confident it will be delicious.

Maison Bouche

2009-05-31T09:41:00.000-07:00

I have a soft spot for France. Like many a food enthusiast, I spent a year there in college and returned not only with a beret - but a new love for fine chocolate, gourmet cheeses and Cote du Rhone. A new French chocolate caught my eye at Miette Confiserie last month, Maison Bouche. At least it looked French (with no English flavor explanations), but I was surprised to learn the bars are made not on the banks of the Seine but right here in downtown Oakland.

As Malena from the Xocolate Bar pointed out, the East Bay is now the place for budding chocolatiers to set up shop. Cheaper rent, easier parking, warmer weather - and hordes of Berkeley parents to please. The founder of Maison Bouche, Diane Beaty, is a graduate Tante Marie's pastry program. She has been in the chocolate business for 3 years, and just this year dedicated herself on a full time basis. Though her mixing bowl is in Oakland, Diane's heart is most definitely in France, with Paris as her favorite European food town. Her company (literally translated as "house of the mouth") is named after the sumptuous kitchens at Versailles.

The 18th century French influence is evident in each bar's elegant packaging and the Maison Bouche web site. Think "shabby chic" meets Marie Antoinette. Diane confesses she loves anything Baroque - including architecture, art, clothing and of course confections. One of her favorite creations is the Amandes Cacaotees, fashioned after one of Marie Antoinette's much loved candies. These almonds are caramelized, then dipped in dark chocolate and dusted in cocoa. Her unusual Langues de Chat ("cat tongues") is another popular French candy from the past.

I sampled three small Maison Bouche bars ($6 each): Sables Croquants, Tilleul, and Pamplemousse Rose. Yet this is only the beginning; Maison Bouche offers 16 different flavored bars, many available in both "noir" and "lait." All of her noir (dark) chocolate bars are 55% cacao, created from a proprietary blend of French couverture. If it's difficult for you to choose, the two most popular are the Fleur de Sel and the Sables Croquants (crunchy butter cookies). Thankfully, the flavor addition does not overpower the smooth and creamy chocolate taste. Because of Diane's subtle touch, I have no fear that her "basilic au poivre" would overwhelm my taste buds with unwelcome spiciness.

Maison Bouche bars and confections are available online and at just a handful of retailers. For those in the Bay Area, Miette is the place to go. Weddings, tea parties, bridal showers, gifts for Francophiles...think Maison Bouche.

Rogue Chocolatier

2009-04-27T13:24:00.000-07:00

He's 24, doesn't have a driver's license and considers himself a bit of a rogue. As in, "operating outside normal controls" - not a thief. Meet Colin Gasko, a true bean-to-bar chocolate manufacturer based in Minneapolis. He doesn't do what is normal and easy in the chocolate world, such as buying couverture, re-melting it and adding bizarre ingredients. Without the funds to purchase expensive European chocolate making equipment, he buys what he can, tinkers with it and improvises. And when it comes time to delivering these bars, he'll jump on his bicycle if he can't hitch a ride. Normal, no, but this process results in some very fine chocolate.

Gasko got his start while working at Whole Foods and realizing he could make chocolate just as good as what they sold. Like many new American chocolate makers, he took to the library to read up on the physics of chocolate production. (No joke -this happens!) Despite the new wave of small batch chocolate makers in America, we've heard it's still a very difficult craft to learn. If you just call up Guittard or Ghirardelli, will they show you their tempering machine? Not likely. That was the impetus behind several of these guys (and it really is all guys) starting the Craft Chocolate Makers of America. No word yet on whether Rogue Chocolatier will be invited to the club.

We picked up our Rogue bars at Fog City News on a recent Chocolate Tour. Gasko has three 70% cacao bars currently for sale in San Francisco: the Sambirano (Madagascar), the Hispaniola (Dominican Republic) and the Rio Caribe (Venezuala). Since these are all single origin, I wish he included a little more information on the packaging about the beans and plantations he uses. But I applaud his no-nonsense tasting notes, where he has assigned each bar 3 simple flavors. My favorite was the Rio Caribe, with notes of coffee, blood orange and nuts. The bars retail for $6.99 and make a very pretty gift set for chocolate connoisseurs.

It takes Gasko 30 hours to make one batch of chocolate, and an additional 15 to mold and package that batch. One might imagine a business consultant suggesting he make larger batches or at least hire a "man in India" to help with the wrapping. That might be normal but we are, after all, talking about a rogue. Let us know what you think about these bars by leaving a comment here or sending us an email at info@gourmetwalks.com.

The Dragee: then and now

2009-04-07T14:49:00.000-07:00

What confection sounds more glamorous than the French dragee (dra-jay)? I envision myself lounging on a divan, with a kir royale in one hand and a bundle of the classic sugar coated almonds in the other. Though dragees have been popular in Europe since the Middle Ages, we are finding new interpretations of them right here in San Francisco - beginning with Recchiuti's collection of chocolate dragees in peanut butter, cherry, almond and hazelnut.

The term "dragee" comes from the French verb "drague," meaning to dredge. After extravagant medieval banquets, the dragee (originally simply a spiced lump of sugar) was offered to aid in digestion and freshen the breath. In the traditional version, the roasted almond center is dredged in sugar, layer after layer, until the final shell is polished smooth. Just as Aix-en-Provence is known for their calissons, the French city of Verdun would lie in obscurity if not for the dragee. Verdun (in the Lorraine region of Eastern France) has been making dragees since the 13th century.

If you've ever flipped through the sumptuous photos in Martha Stewart Weddings, you've seen bundles of pastel colored dragees presented as wedding favors. Because the almond is technically a seed, it has long been associated with fertility. And so dragees have come to symbolize fertility, prosperity and good luck - what we all wish for the bride and groom. It's even been said that the contrast of the sweet shell and the bitter nut illustrate the "for better or worse" of married life.

Dragees are not without political controversy, especially here in California. Public health advocates have questioned the advisability of downing the metallic dragees popular in cake and cookie decorating. The metals used may contain mercury, and even if they didn't, I'd worry about losing a tooth! Since 2003, metallic dragees have been banned for sale in California - but easily available online. This brings me to the superiority of chocolate dragees...

If you live in the Bay Area and are looking to add dragees to your Easter table, I have some suggestions. For the classic style, head straight to Richart or Teuscher. Both spots, located on the same Sutter Street Union Square block, are favorites on our Chocolate Tours. But for something a little more inventive, visit Recchiuti in the Ferry Building. My favorite are the slightly crunchy "Peanut Butter Pearls" (you won't find these in Europe) and the "Cherries Two Ways" which are positively addictive. If you can't decide, his "Asphalt Jungle" is a combo pack. One of my favorite online options for dragees is the Cocoa Room. With flavors like "amaretto tiramisu" and "pumpkin spice," these trendy confections can double as artwork when displayed in glass jars.

What is your favorite place for a dragee fix? Let us know here, or at info@gourmetwalks.com.

New Good Things

2009-03-12T11:10:00.000-07:00

Do I ever get tired leading the same Chocolate Tour, week after week? No, because the incredibly talented chocolate makers we work with are always coming out with something new. We love tasting what's new and also getting reactions from the chocolate lovers on our tour. Not everything we try is a winner, but below are our favorites of the last few months:

Scharffen Berger Asante Bar
With the factory set to close and Joseph Schmidt soon to retire, here is some good news coming out of Berkeley - the new Scharffen Berger Asante bar. This single origin bar from Ghana is the second in Scharffen Berger's Chocolate Makers series. Locals and tourists are loving its deep chocolate flavor, with just a hint of cherry and spice. It also makes for a fun comparison with the 68% Tome Acu bar - which really does have the finish of a fine dessert wine. We can't wait to see what country Scharffen Berger will turn to for its next bar in this series.

Ginger Elizabeth Bars
What were you doing when you were 24? Sitting in a cubicle, I'm afraid - definitely not running an eponymous chocolate company. Ginger Elizabeth has set up an elegant chocolaterie in Sacramento, and although not making bean-to-bar chocolate, she is melting and mixing with a careful touch. She has apprenticed with big names in the pastry world, including Jacques Torres and Daniel Budd. While a trip to Sacramento is a must for her filled chocolates, three of her bars are for sale at Fog City News. A definite favorite for hazelnut lovers is the Crunchy Gianduja Bar.

Schoggi Drinking Chocolate
Why is it so hard to find good drinking chocolate in San Francisco? You may know about Boulette's Larder's rich and creamy chocolate, but Schoggi on Yerba Buena Lane has been making authentic drinking chocolate for the past couple months. The recipe is simple: melted bittersweet Swiss chocolate, cream and a hint of spice. And for those of us who are ready to trash our Swiss Miss mixes, Schoggi sells little bags of the drinking chocolate to replicate the experience at home.

Christopher Elbow Chocolate Marshmallow
With such a wide and impressive assortment of international chocolates, there is always something new and delicious at Cocoa Bella. Micheal Mischer fans should take note that Cocoa Bella is now selling Mischer truffles, with unique flavors like "root beer" and "banana split." But my favorite new thing has to be the Christopher Elbow chocolate marshmallow. Think mallomar, only with homemade marshmallow and fine gourmet chocolate. And if you're a coconut lover, like I am, the flaked coconut coating will make this confection simply irresistable.

And if this is not enough, we can't wait to simple four new flavors coming out of Michael Recchiuti's kitchen next week. Just in time for spring, we've heard that cherries will be well represented.

Original Beans

2009-02-25T13:57:00.000-08:00

Original Beans has been in the news lately because of what many consider its exorbitant price - $14.95 for a standard 3 oz bar. True, it's more than double the cost of fine chocolate bars like Scharffen Berger and Michel Cluizel. But after sampling their delectable "Beni Wild Harvest" and "Cru Virunga" bars, I've decided that $13.95 is not such a bad price for an occasional indulgence. And if you think it's the most expensive chocolate out there, it's not even close. The Bonnat Porcelana bar, available on Chocosphere for $21.95, is still 57% more expensive, and you can't even boast that your purchase is good for the planet.

"The planet: replant it" is Original Beans' slogan - and a fun tongue twister. For each bar you buy, Original Beans plants a tree in the region of the bean's origin. If you take the extra step of visiting their web site and typing in your bar's lot number, you'll learn more about the plantations Original Beans is working with, with pictures of nurseries, plantation farmers and conservation programs. Recyclable packaging? check. Renewable energy in chocolate production? check. Offsetting of fossil fuel use? check. It should be no surprise, then, that the headquarters of this unique chocolate company is San Francisco.

Another bean-to-bar chocolate company in San Francisco? Not exactly. Original Beans co-founder Lesal Rusky has two partners in Amsterdam and produces the chocolate in Switzerland. So it's a good thing carbon offsetting is taken care of, because these beans have been around before they make it to San Francisco retailers. The Swiss influence is also evident in the taste and texture of these bars. The "Beni Wild Harvest," made from Bolivian beans, boasts a 60 hour conch. It's incredibly rich and voluptuous. If you prefer the taste of rough and unprocessed bars (like Taza), then Original Beans is not for you. But lovers of brands like Valrhona and Swiss or Belgian chocolate are bound to enjoy Original Beans bars.

Both Fog City News and Chocolate Covered carry the two Original Beans bars I sampled, as well as their Esmeraldas bar, a 42% cacao milk chocolate bar with fleur de sel. Look for the distinctive slate packaging with delicate silver vines. And know that, even if you're spending more than you would on a bottle of wine, you're helping some real vines blossom in cacao country.

Candy Darling open in TenderNob

2009-01-22T14:20:00.000-08:00

This year has been a big one for Andy Warhol in San Francisco. First, the Contemporary Jewish Museum showed "Warhol's Jews," a series of 10 portraits by Andy Warhol. Next, the De Young will be opening its "Warhol Live" music based exhibit on Valentine's Day. And finally, Candy Darling recently opened on Sutter and Jones, making it the first chocolate shop in the TenderNob. The name comes from one of Warhol's muses, a transexual who died young with these famous last words: "I am just so bored by everything. You might say bored to death."

I visited the shop, whose friendly owners live in the hood, in early January and it still looked like they were moving in. The white walls were clean and bare, just waiting for some Andy Warhol portraits. The kitchen, which they plan to rent out to aspiring chefs, is visible and on some days you may even see them in the midst of making truffles. Clear glass canisters line two walls filled with the usual assortment of candy, from gumdrops to lollipops to gummie bears. But that was of no concern to me; I was there for the chocolate.

When I inquired about the prices, I had to ask again to be sure I heard correctly. $10 a pound! For a bit of perspective, imported French chocolate will run you $120/pound (Richart) or $75/pound (Teuscher). Even local Recchiuti is up to $60/pound. So if you've lost your job thanks to this economy, or are worried about losing your job, then Candy Darling is the place to go for an inexpensive chocolate indulgence. But like mama said, you get what you pay for. So don't expect to see the Mona Lisa artfully displayed on top of your chocolate, exotic or rare ingredients, fancy names or 7 layers of coordinated packaging. These are simple truffles, hand made using Guittard, with just 4 varieties available when I visited. They are rich, buttery and quite large - similar to the famous Joseph Schmidt "American" truffle.

A specialty of Candy Darling is the spicy ginger dipped in chocolate, as well as apricots. The owners, who have been in the confectionery business for many years, have plans to expand their line-up and even sell something frozen in the retro-cooler. Maybe professional labels and gift packages are in the works too. I'll be back to Candy Darling - and I hope the neighborhood, transexuals and all, gives them a warm welcome!

A Chocolate Report from the Fancy Food Show

2009-01-19T15:20:00.000-08:00

I spent today turning down mildly flavored bottled waters, organic margarita mixes, acai goji energy bars and sea salt everything - only to focus on chocolate bars and confections at the Fancy Food Show. Almost every major chocolate manufacturer was represented, from bean-to-bar manufacturers like Republica del Cacao to truffle makers like Joseph Schmidt. Naturally, sampling was a part of the experience and, like guests on our Chocolate Tours, I learned to control my portions and squirrel away what I could for later.

Rather than list the "best" chocolates I tried today, I've synthesized the experience into the top 7 trends in gourmet chocolate right now. For the most part, customers seem to be buying into these trends - especially when the quality is high, the price point reasonable and the packaging impressive:

1) Nibs
Scharffen Berger has been selling nibs for many years now, but newer companies are now either mixing nibs into bars, coating nibs in chocolate or roasting nibs and selling them straight up. Nibs are everywhere! Sweet Riot, a 3 year old company formed primarily around the sale of nibs, offers 3 chocolate coated varieties, all at 140 calories a recyclable tin. This marketing driven company ("cacao, culture, cool") is proud of the fact that svelte celebs like Eva Longoria and Sarah Jesica Parker snack on the nibs and stay, well, svelte. Other Fancy Food participants with note-worthy nib creations were Amano (who now sells 6 origin-based varieties of roasted nibs) and Coco-luxe (debuting their new Roark bar, studded with nibs). The name is based on the protagonist in Ayn Rand's The Fountainhead. The skyscraper on the packaging pays homage to his devotion to architecture (and himself, of course).

2) Spice
There is no holding some chocolate makers back when it comes to adding heat to chocolate. At several Fancy Food chocolate stops, I was happy to have gourmet crackers from the next both over to cleanse my palate and offer some relief. One of the hottest I tried was the Chuao Firecracker bar. Founded by two Venezuelan brothers, Chuao Chocolatier is no stranger to the spicy side of chocolate. Another best selling bar is the Spicy Maya, with pasilla chile, cinnamon and cayenne pepper. The Firecracker bar has pop rocks(see trend #7), chipolte and salt. The least appealing spicy/exotic bar I sampled was the New Tree Thyme and Flax seed. For me, the thyme and flax completely overpowered the chocolate. But I kind of believe, just like there is a person for everyone, there has got to be consumer for every kind of chocolate bar. Just not me, thank you.

3) Toffee
While some go for spice, others love chocolate confections that hearken back to childhood. This widespread love of toffee may coincide with the popularity of comfort desserts (like sticky toffee pudding) in San Francisco restaurants, compared to ground-breaking savory treats from pastry chefs like Boris Portnoy and Elizabeth Faulkner. The best toffee I sampled today was from Cary's of Oregon, which, lucky for us, is also available at Cocoa Bella. I was happy to see that some chocolate makers, including SF's Poco Dolce and Vosges, are experimenting with toffee bars. After noting that their Toffee tiles topped the sales charts, Poco Dolce just unveiled 4 new toffee flavors. The Double Espresso variety was tasty and a welcome pick-me-up after hours of grazing. And those familiar with Vosges know that Katrina Markoff would not settle for classic toffee. Her Red Fire Toffee contains ancho and chipolte chiles, ceylon cinnamon and red fire pecans. Hot? Yes, but it won't make your eyes water.

4) Organic
Everybody's doing it, but who is doing it well? Green and Blacks and Dagoba were well represented. The best all-organic filled chocolates I tried were Jim Shepherd's Lille Belle Farms. We love sampling his unique Smoked Blue Cheese truffle on our Chocolate Tours at Cocoa Bella, as well as the Fresh Mint ganache. At the show, I tried his juicy Cherry Cordial as well as his new spicy almonds. And as for organic chocolate bars, Vosges again impressed with several new all-organic varieties. This fanciful Vosges packaging is starting to look like something I'd pick up at my yoga studio, right next to the overpriced ghee. I liked the Peanut Butter BonBon (something like the Ghirardelli filled peanut butter squares, only with big flakes of salt), but if you're part of the artisan salt backlash, then stay clear. I also liked the Habana bar, subtly filled with Ecuador plantains. The Enchanted Mushroom bar (with such a promising name!) tasted dry and dusty, and I was not convinced by the label's suggestion that the Reishi mushroom is going to make me live longer. I'll go to my acupuncturist for Chinese herbs, not my chocolate shop!

5) Chocolate and Wine
We run Chocolate and Wine Tours every Friday, so we know about the popularity of chocolate and wine. In addition to the San Francisco Chocolate Factory's Cocoa Vinosa, several other companies have put together some unique chocolate and wine offerings. A company called Sweets had samples of their new chocolate wine sticks. Once I looked at the ingredient list and saw "corn syrup" and "palm oil" I declined a taste. And then a company with a name appealing mainly to oenophiles, Brix, has created 8 oz slabs of chocolate to match with specific wines. They don't make their own chocolate, but instead blend with a Ghana bean (not so unusual) that has the "red fruit tones" critical for a good wine pairing. I was skeptical of their milk chocolate bar, which they said could pair with pinot noir, port, ice wine, rose and burgandy! With claims like that, I'm considering ordering some to try on our next few tours.

6) Single Origin
Yes, this has been the buzzword for some time now. Even Scharffen Berger, whose founders believed that blended was better, has introduced a Maker's Series of Single Origin bars. Remelters are getting in on the single origin action, and using the term to lure buyers into their Fancy Food booths. I sampled from Chocolove and Vermont's Lake Champlain, among others. The origin I was most excited to learn more about at the show was Hawaii - the only U.S. state that grows cacao. I sampled from The Original Hawaiian Chocolate Factory, located on the big island. And on Oahu, Malie Kai Chocolates. Both offer tours - the perfect experience to fold into your next Hawaii getaway!

7) Pop Rocks
I was surprised when I sampled Christopher Elbow's Pop Rocks bar recently at Cocoa Bella. This is taking exotic chocolate to a new level, I thought! But now it seems Pop Rocks is the go-to wacky new ingredient for a host of chocolatiers. I tried the Chauo Firecracker bar (noted above) as well as a delicious new creation from Cosmic Chocolate in Oakland. A perfect Valentines gift, their "Champagne and Rocks" bar is 64% cacao with, you guessed it, champagne and pop rocks. Classic French chef Francois Payard has even dabbled with pop rocks and chocolate, though he calls it a "guilty secret."

What do you think about these trends? Let us know at info@gourmetwalks.com, or comment here on this blog.

Salt & Chocolate

2008-12-29T15:54:00.000-08:00

Salt and chocolate is a beautiful combination that is all the rage in the artisan chocolate scene. We must talk it up a fair amount on our Chocolate Tours, because a customer recently asked me if I've had my blood pressure checked. (My acupuncturist continues to marvel at my low blood pressure, so there!) Salt enhances the flavor of most foods, but is a particularly nice match with milk chocolate - cutting some of the sweetness and adding complexity.

When I was growing up, the only salt my mom used was the blue Morton brand with the little blonde umbrella girl. Now the world of gourmet salt is vast and almost overwhelming. Using kosher salt in any good recipe is just about a given, even for my mom. Sea salt was the first artisan salt to capture the attention of American chefs, especially those with French training. Artisan sea salts are typically natural and organic, harvested from the sea with very little treatment or refining. The mineral content and quality of the water is what creates a fine salt. The most common salt added to chocolate is fleur de sel, a type of grey sea salt. It is harvested by hand by "paludiers" in France and named for the aroma of violets created when the salt dries. Like wine, different regions produce fleur de sel of varying styles. The best known are Britanny and the Camargue, where you can horseback ride through the salt flats.

Chocolatiers also experiment with pink salts. Michael Mischer uses a Murray River sea salt, whose pink flakes come from the largest river in Australia. And Katrina Markoff of Vosges likes pink Himalayan salt mined from the Himalayan mountains in Tibet. So enough of the history lesson...What are some of my favorite salty sweet chocolate creations?

1) Charles Chocolate Cashew Bar
I love filled chocolates from Charles, but his widely available bars have never made it into my shopping cart, until now. Chuck Siegel has developed a new "Emeryville Collection" of chocolate bars exclusive to Whole Foods. I guess if you don't live in the Bay Area, Emeryville sounds exotic. Each bar features organic Straus Family cream and butter, nuts and, of course, salt. My favorite is the Cashew Bar, a blend of roasted cashews, fleur de sel and 41% milk chocolate.

2) Domori Latte Sal
This bar has made me an unofficial member of the Domori "Cult Cacao." Domori is an Italian chocolate maker that actually owns their own plantations and focuses solely on the quality of cacao - without adding vanilla or even soy lecithin. At 44% cacao, its flavor is deep and rich. Like most of the bars listed here, the addition of salt (fleur de sel here) is not overpowering and makes the chocolate even more memorably satisfying.

3) Vosges Goji Exotic Candy Bar
This Vosges milk chocolate bar is a tribute to the Himalayas - with pink Himalayan salt and the goji berry, both harvested from the mountains of Tibet. A staple of health food stores, the goji berry (also known as the wolfberry) is believed to be full of astounding nutritional benefits. But whether or not the goji berry will make us live until 252, like a famous goji loving Chinese emperor, I'll still love this Vosges bar.

4) Rococo Dark Sea Salt Artisan Bar
I know we shouldn't judge a book by its cover, but I loved Rococo even before trying the chocolate because of its beautifully unique packaging. Chantal Coady is the woman behind this British chocolate company. She specializes in unique flavor combinations (like basil and persian lime), but this simple sea salt and milk chocolate is one of her best. The bar is 37% cacao, all organic. The plastic wrapping displays various antique French molds Coady uses for her bars, and as a bonus, is re-sealable.

5) Michael Mischer Milk Chocolate with Toffee and Murray River Sea Salt
When customers on our Chocolate Tours say they like toffee, I won't hesitate to direct them to this bar. Toffee and chocolate is quite sweet, and so the addition of salt just makes sense. The bar is 38% cacao milk chocolate, made by hand in his small Oakland kitchen. Like all Michael Mischer bars, the clear packaging showcases the beauty of the bar within.

6) Recchiuti Fleur de Sel Caramel
Nearly every modern chocolatier makes a fleur de sel piece. But there are many ways to do this. Some are just too heavy handed with the salt for my taste. Others are quite goopy, when I prefer a thicker ganache center. That is why the Michael Recchiuti fleur de sel is my first choice when I'm looking for a salty sweet filled chocolate. It's a pretty little piece, enrobed in bittersweet chocolate and marbleized with Venezuelan white chocolate.

Chocolate on the Cheap

2008-11-14T09:35:00.001-08:00

On our Chocolate Tours you'll usually find us talking about why we should be spending more money on chocolate. Especially if that money is going to companies (like Askinosie) who reward struggling cacao farmers with good wages and a stake in the outcome of the company. Or going to companies (like Dagoba) who spend money on reforesting plantations with heirloom cacao trees. But when times are tough, we can't all spend $10 or more on an artisan chocolate bar that will be gone in just a few hours.

If you need a chocolate fix and have long since sworn off 50 cent candy bars, we have some suggestions. All of the bars below are under $5 at Chocosphere, and the truffles won't cost more than $1 each. If you buy in bulk, you'll save even more. They are perfect everyday chocolate treats. And that means you can save up and buy the $19.95 Bonnat Porcelana bar for a truly special occasion!

1) E. Guittard ($2.50 for 2 oz bar)
Guittard's premium line of blended chocolate bars are named after the company's founder, Etienne Guittard. Many chocolate lovers do not know that Guittard has been around almost as long as Ghirardelli. They source their own beans, and manufacture the bars in their Burlingame factory. We like the Tsarantana 61%, but the bar is also available in 38% and 72% cacao.

2) Chocolove ($2.95 for 3 oz bar)
We've always enjoyed the smooth, creamy textures of Chocolove bars, based in Boulder, Colorado. Although they use Belgian chocolate and are not a true bean to bar company, they have a wide range of flavor options, including a new higher priced single origin line ("Chocolatour"). As a bonus for gift givers, each bar includes a love poem on the wrapper. We like the 65% "rich dark" bar and the "Chilies and Cherries" bar.

3) Dagoba ($2.68 for 2 oz bar)
If you're committed to eating organic, Dagoba is an excellent choice that is kind to your wallet. In fact, you'll often see them on sale at Whole Foods for just $2/bar. Given founder Frederick Schilling's fondness for chocolate "alchemy," there is a wide variety of flavors to choose from: seeds, superfruit, lavender, mint, lime and their most popular "xocolatl." We like the "beaucoup berries" and even include it on our Chocolate and Wine Tour. Dagoba also has a single origin line that is higher priced at $3.95/bar.

4) Ghirardelli Milk Luxe ($3.95 for 3 oz bar)
Most tourists can't leave San Francisco without a Ghirardelli souvenir, or at least a visit to Ghirardelli Square. San Francisco's oldest chocolate maker, Ghirardelli has kept pace with its artisan competitors by offering their "Intense Dark" line and the new "Milk Luxe." If you have a milk chocolate lover in the family, we recommend the Crisp Milk Luxe bar - like a Nestle crunch bar, but much better.

5) Scharffen Berger ($4.15 for 3 oz bar)
Scharffen Berger bars are the most expensive on this list, but they are still well below our $5 threshold. And like Dagoba, Scharffen Berger often discounts the bars at stores like Whole Foods. Since bars can last up to a year, it makes sense to stock up. Your money will buy you a high quality artisan, small batch chocolate bar, made right in their Berkeley factory from a blend of cacao beans. A favorite on our Chocolate Tours is the Nibby bar, available in milk (41%) or dark (62%).

6) Whole Foods 365 ($2.19 or 3 oz bar)
Whole Foods, Safeway and Trader Joes, among others, are getting into the chocolate scene with their own private label brands. No surprise, the Whole Foods bar is one you can feel good about eating. They work with a co-op of small-scale farmers in the Dominican Republic, and say they pay a premium to guarantee organic production. But the chocolate itself it actually made in Switzerland, which means a bigger carbon footprint than some of the other brands we've recommended.

7) Leonidas (truffles approximately $1 apiece)
The Belgians invented filled chocolates, and Leonidas is just the place to go for those creamy, luscious treats - all at $34/pound. If this sounds like a lot to you, step into Richart and get your credit card ready. If you're a hazelnut fan, we recommend anything with praline or gianduja. Their buttercreams are always a big hit on our Chocolate Tours.

7) See's (filled chocolates approximately 50 cents each)
You crave something sweet and a 75% cacao bar is just not going to do it for you. Chances are a See's is right around the corner. Their filled chocolates are priced at an amazing $15/pound - plus they'll always give you one free sample! You won't find any cutting edge exotic flavors, but you'll get chocolate the way grandma likes it. That can be a very good thing.

Looking for even more savings? Join one of our Chocolate Tours and you'll get a Gourmet Walks Chocolate Lover Card. This card entitles you to discounts at 8 different Bay Area chocolate shops, including Scharffen Berger (which also sells Dagoba), Leonidas and Fog City News. Fog City News carries the complete E. Guittard line.

Enjoy!

TCHO "Beta" Store Now Open

2008-11-10T16:01:00.000-08:00

"Single origin" is the phrase of choice for most fine chocolate makers right now, but not for TCHO. TCHO, founded by Timothy Childs of Wired Magazine, aims to be flavor-driven. This is good news for the average chocolate enthusiast who walks into a store like Fog City News and is overwhelmed by eight different varieties of Michel Cluizel plantation bars. They're all the same cacao percentage; how do you know which one to choose?

TCHO's 50 gram tablets (all 70% cacao) are now available in "chocolatey," "fruity," "nutty" and "citrus." The beans come Ghana, Peru and Madagasgar (for now) and are processed right in TCHO's Pier 17 facility. Since Ghirardelli and Guittard have moved East and South, TCHO is actually the only bean-to-bar chocolate factory in San Francisco. Like most small batch American chocolate makers, TCHO says they are committed to working closely with cacao growers to grow the best possible beans while raising their income for the long-terms. That all sounds very good, but you're probably wondering - how is the chocolate?

Customers on my Chocolate and Wine Tour have been loving the "chocolatey" variety, one which TCHO has had ample time to perfect as consumers emailed in their feedback to tcho.com. A nice democratic touch, and I can't help but wonder what the uber-secretive Valhrona would think! While "fruity" was not to my liking, I've been enjoying the "citrus" variety that just came out a few weeks ago. It makes for an interesting comparison to Scharffen Berger, whose signature bars have citrus flavors. For several months now TCHO has been selling the bars online only ($5 apiece), but the big news as of last week is the new "beta store" at Pier 17.

Pier 17 is not particularly close to anything, so think of it as a destination chocolate shop. The tiny office-like space sells all the TCHO bars (now available in a snazzy orange and gold packaging), and cute, simple t-shirts designed to advertise your personal flavor preference. As in "I am chocolatey." Soon they will be selling coffee (Blue Bottle) and hot chocolate drinks as well. The best part for all Gourmet Walks customers is that our new Chocolate Lover Card entitles you to a 10% discount. Sample TCHO, and we'd love to hear what you think!

Chocolatier Blue in Berkeley

2008-10-08T11:35:00.001-07:00

Where can you find the most perfect pistachios? the most flavorful figs? Chocolatier Chris Blue knows and he is willing to pay a premium to bring them to his new chocolate shop on University Ave in Berkeley. The tiny boutique offers 12 varieties of filled chocolates, drinking chocolate and a few Amedei bars. Chris has yet to hire any employees, making each of his chocolates by hand every day in the open kitchen.

Chris settled on Berkeley after working as a chocolatier at Charlie Trotter's in Chicago and then Norman Love in Fort Myers, Florida. He believes no other town could match Berkeley's appreciation for fine, fresh food - preferable even over San Francisco. I wish Chris could have secured space closer to the Gourmet Ghetto or even 6th Street. When I left, still nibbling happily on his palet d'or, a woman yelled at me for not being an activist and, truth be told, I did feel a little frivolous on that dingy part of the street. But hey, even activists can enjoy a $1.50 truffle now and then.

Chris is proud of his chocolates, and most of that pride seems to stem from the prime ingredients he hand selects. Apparently he is the only chocolatier in the US able to use Amedei chocolate couverture - quite a coup. He makes an effort to ship in fresh, organic cream and butter from Nebraska, pistachios from Sicily, passionfruit from New Zealand and hazelnuts from Oregon. He laments the fact that the pistachios he uses are $80/pound, but is not willing to compromise with less. I only hope Berkeley denizens can appreciate the difference. I know they'll applaud him for using biodegradable and recycled packaging, even if it looks a little on the amateur side. And the occasional free sample is always a pleasure!

And finally, how did they taste? Aside from the palet d'or, these chocolates are not for purists or those who enjoy just a subtle bit of something extra in their chocolate. The flavors are intense! The lime felt like I was eating a double key lime pie, with only a touch of chocolate. Some of the fillings are too goopy for my taste, like the caramel and the passion fruit. My favorite was the macademia because of its more subtle flavor and pearly white color. I also liked the raspberry because it was not too sweet. Almost all of his chocolates are glossy and iridescent, reflecting the light under the tall glass domes that line his counter.

I'll return to Chocolatier Blue to try one of his drinking chocolates. Chris does not use a powder, so that's a good start. A cup costs $3.50 and comes in espresso, cinnamon and chili, dark and peppermint. I must confess that I had a tummy ache the day I visited him and needed to put a limit on my indulgences. Yes, even the leader of chocolate tours can have too much chocolate!

Chocolate Milk: The Remix

2008-09-30T14:43:00.001-07:00

It's birthday party time again and what mother doesn't get anxious over planning the menu? As for drinks, soda is a definite "no no" and juice boxes now irk the environmentalists and the health conscious. I even heard one mom saying that cold drinks are no good for kids. Who knew? At my son's next party, I'm going to go out on a limb and offer up an old drink with a new spin - Got Milk Chocolate Flavored Straws by the San Francisco Chocolate Factory.

To keep my party on the greener side, I'll give each kid a clear plastic cup (BPA free of course) filled with cold, organic skim milk. And then for the good stuff - a plastic straw filled with tiny chocolate beads. Insert into milk and watch it transform from white to brown. Et voila - chocolate milk! That's what my son calls a "special treat."

I must be a little bit picky and say that the taste is not as rich and chocolatey as premixed chocolate milk. (In April, the SF Chronicle Taster's Choice deemed Berkeley Farms chocolate milk the best of the bunch.) In fact, I'd suggest small cups of milk to be sure you'll taste enough chocolate. Admittedly, it's a gimmick, but a very cute one. Given the effort it will demand from preschoolers, it almost counts as an activity. Combine that with a bouncy house and you've got an instant party!

The Perfect Wine to Pair with Chocolate

2008-09-15T14:46:00.000-07:00

Last Thursday I found myself with a tray of 18 different chocolates, ranging from a sweet milk truffle to an extra dark artisan bar. The task? To find the perfect wine to pair with chocolate. As an expert panelist at the Taste TV "Chocolate Seizure" event, I had to put aside my fussy concerns about the differences among the various chocolates that made the selection of one perfect wine impossible. And I needed to get over the fact that port was not an option - my favorite wine for chocolate pairings. Instead, I cast my vote for one of the three "pre-approved" red wines created at Crushpad: the merlot, the cabernet or the zinfandel. We were making history, since this is supposed to be the first red wine specifically designed for consuming with chocolate.

I applaud Taste TV for once more rallying together this city's chocophiles and oenophiles for another sold-out chocolate event. Unlike the SF International Chocolate Salon this spring, the guest list for Chocolate Seizure was limited and so there was a bit of breathing room. And the price for the general public was a very reasonable $40. Many of San Francisco's small time chocolatiers benefit from the exposure in Taste TV events. Present Thursday night were the usual suspects: Jade Chocolate, Amano, New Tree, Coco Delice, Saratoga and the Tea Room. Appearing for the first time was TCHO, drumming up support for their "beta" chocolate experience. The best piece of chocolate I tasted that night was the Jade Hawaiian sea salt bar. But back to the wine...

If you haven't been to Crushpad yet, make a beeline. Or at least make a beeline to the wealthiest person you know and get them to sponsor your creation. We're talking $5700 to $10,700 a barrel. Crushpad sources the best grapes from local Napa and Sonoma vineyards. They'll meet with you to determine what kind of a wine you want to make, and then you can be involved in the process (from grape-crushing to designing the bottle) as little or as much as you want. For the busy salaryman, the Crushpad web cam offers a live connection to your grapes. And it was through this process that the three options for the 08 "Domaine de Taste Amerique" were born.

It was a close call, but the Cabernet ultimately prevailed. It wasn't my vote; I just couldn't get past its almost effervescent quality, since Crushpad decided to pour the cab well before it was ready. And I'm told it could be at least another year! But when that time comes, a future reserve bottle of this "cult, boutique" wine should be making its way to my home. In the meantime, I'll be enjoying the wines we're pairing with chocolate on our new San Francisco Gourmet Chocolate and Wine Tour.

With all this talk about pairing wine and chocolate, I can't help but think of Chloe Doutre-Roussel, whose little pink book The Chocolate Connoisseur is a favorite among my tour guides. For her, warm water is what you drink with chocolate. At 6 am, when your taste buds are most fresh. Sorry Chloe, but the people have spoken.

Artisan Chocolate Maker Roundtable

2008-09-01T16:47:00.000-07:00

So you think you wanna become a bean-to-bar artisanal chocolate maker? I’d have second thoughts after listening to five chocolate manufacturers share their struggles at an event sponsored by Slow Food Nation on Labor Day. Present was the criminal lawyer turned chocolate maker Shawn Askinosie, the laid-back Art Pollard of Amano Chocolate, the articulate Mexicanophile Alex Whitmore of Taza Chocolate, ex-glassmaker Steve De Vries of De Vries Chocolate and the ultimate perfectionist Alan McClure of Patric Chocolate. With only a few jokes made in the almost 3 hour long panel discussion, these guys take their chocolate very seriously. The panel was moderated by Alexander Morozoff, publisher of the glossy Cocoaroma Magazine.

What’s so hard about making your own chocolate? You get the best leftovers, you’re loved by all the women and you’re raking in the dough given the recent surge in dark chocolate sales. Ask Shawn Askinosie just how challenging it is to source cacao, especially from farmers who are certified organic. He once wired $28,000 to a Venezualan pastor and not a single cacao bean made its way back to his Missouri factory. And then there is the tempering; many of these guys still have burns on their hands from mistakes made with this grueling aspect of the cacao production process. There are also very few resources out there to guide young chocolate entrepreneurs. Art Pollard’s “new” antique conching machine came with a simple 1 page “instruction manual.” Steve De Vries tried to learn about making chocolate from library books; they all started with the phrase “melt chocolate.”

These chocolate artisans are proud of what they make, but there was a fair amount of frustration in the air. For one, why is every major chocolate company latching onto the term “artisan” in the hopes it will buffet their sales? Most panelists agreed that in order to be called artisan, a company must have one expert who manages the entire process of making chocolate. In that case, it is a bit of a Catch 22. Artisan chocolate makers need to make money by selling more chocolate; if they sell a lot of chocolate, they’ll need to hire more help and perhaps sacrifice the quality of their beans. At some point, they won’t truly be artisan but they will be profitable. And there is the problem that the American public, raised on sweet milk chocolate bars, will never truly appreciate what they do and still aren’t ready to fork over $10 for a chocolate bar.

Some panelists made light of the concern that artisan chocolate may be perceived as an elite food, like arugula and other foods that plague Democratic presidential candidates. According to De Vries, anyone should be able to afford a $10 chocolate bar. And as I say on my Chocolate Tours, the very best chocolate bar costs far, far less than the very best bottle of wine. But that doesn’t really address the problem. Americans are used to buying $1 candy bars. If artisan donuts suddenly cost $10 apiece, only a real food snob is going to think the cost is worth it. Shawn Askinosie expressly wants to stay away from chocolate snobs, instead aiming at “chocolate geeks.” For that reason, he decided to make a white chocolate bar, even with added nuts. For the rest of the chocolate purists on the panel, many of whom eschew soy lecithin, vanilla and even cocoa butter, that is taking things a little too far.

The real reason chocolate bars should cost $10 (or even more) is not to put money in the pockets of “elite” chocolate makers. Rather, it is to fairly reward the farmers who grow the beans that are essential to quality cacao. The panelists all make an effort to pay the cacao farmers they partner with prices that are above fair trade, with Askinosie even giving his farmers a “stake in the outcome.” And this is what Slow Food is all about – recognizing the agricultural ties inherent in everything we eat, including a chocolate bar.

So while listening to these artisan chocolate makers reaffirmed my own career choice, it seems I’m not the only woman choosing to enjoy fine chocolate rather than make it. It’s an observation I’ve made before, but why are there so few women in the bean-to-bar chocolate world? These guys talked about the importance of understanding science and engineering, so maybe the lack of female representation in these fields is part of the problem. Or maybe, like me, women are just too busy feeding the kids to make weekly trips to plantations from Africa to Equador. Alex Whitmore said that if they have another Artisan Chocolate Roundtable next year, there will be 5 times the number of participants. I hope so, and I hope at least one of them is a woman!

Coco-luxe Chocolate Opens on Haight

2008-08-02T17:04:00.000-07:00

John Scharffenberger, Michael Recchiuti, Joseph Schmidt, Charles Siegel...The Bay Area chocolate scene has more than its fair share of the X chromosome. But there is a lovely new lady on the chocolate scene, Stephanie Marcon, who recently opened a chic little shop in the Upper Haight named Coco-luxe.

Yes, Coco-luxe has been around since 2006, giving Stephanie ample time to perfect her brand image before opening up a retail location. And her brand (Think Juicy Couture goes vintage) is much more at home in the trendy Haight than stuffy downtown San Francisco. The tiny shop is painted tangerine and brown to match her sleek packaging. The obligatory brown t-shirt is for sale for the Coco-luxe slogan, "Chocolate to Share...Or Not." My Gourmet Walks tour guide and I were happy to share hot chocolate, truffles and a chocolate bar while the super-friendly saleswoman answered all our questions.

Like the Christopher Elbow shop which opened earlier in the year, Coco-luxe has a small "chocolate bar" with drinks to suit a variety of tastes. We tried the "pudding" ($4) - a thick blend of dark chocolate with very little sugar. If you'd just like a little liquid to wash down your chocolate, Coco-luxe sells Boylan, Bubble Up and Virgil's Root Beer, all in retro glass bottles. Next to the bar rests a shiny white espresso machine, from which Coco-luxe creates coffee drinks using Bay Area favorite, Blue Bottle. And of course, there is the option of delicious homemade marshmallows to add to any drink.

Marcom says her chocolates are inspired by classic dessert flavors of her childhood. And it's true, reading off the list of truffle flavors made me smile, thinking back to old-school diners where the meal was just a prelude to dessert: after dinner mint, angel food, banana split, german chocolate. If you're an exotic chocolate fan, you won't be finding garden herbs, chiles and pork products in Coco-luxe chocolate! These are sweet creations, and make wonderful gifts. I especially like the baby themed truffle collection, with illustrations of safety pins and baby bottles. I've never seen that before, maybe because of the x chromosome issue? After having my third baby, I'd definitely choose chocolate over yet another monogrammed baby blanket!

Coco-luxe also sells three unique varieties of chocolate bars, in eye-catching wrappers. I tried the "Monkeyin Around" bar, milk chocolate with banana chips, cacao nibs and sea salt ($4.95 for 2.5 oz). It was a yummy bar, but I really didn't taste any banana. It seemed like the nibs and banana chips were there more for texture than flavor. Her "Happy Trails" bar is dark chocolate with trail mix and her "Good Fortune" bar has candied ginger and fortune cookie. Clever flavor combinations, with fantastic package design.

The best thing I sampled at Coco-luxe was the German Chocolate truffle. I am nuts for coconut, and this just about matched my other favorite coconut treat: Fran's Coconut Gold Bar. I also liked the gingerbread truffle, coated in white chocolate.

I hope Coco-luxe does well in this Haight location. The area is a magnet for vintage clothing shoppers, music lovers and of course panhandlers - but fine chocolate lovers? We'll see...

The Whiter the Chocolate

2008-07-23T14:41:00.000-07:00

There are chocolate snobs who won't eat anything under 85%, aficionados who turn down their noses at milk chocolate and purists who scoff at exotic fillings. So where does that leave white chocolate? I'd say at the bottom of the heap. Many don't even consider white chocolate to be chocolate because it's pure cocoa butter and not one bit of cacao. White chocolate is never a popular option on our chocolate tours. But walk into any Swiss or Belgian chocolate shop, and you will find white chocolate galore - not just at Easter.

But what about the white chocolate bar? If you've traveled to England, you've no doubt tried a Milky Bar, but far better alternatives exist. In fact, small batch artisan chocolate makers, like Askinosie, are tackling white chocolate with the same rigorous attention to ingredients and methods shown in their dark chocolate bars. Last week I assembled a tasting panel of sleep-deprived mothers to sample some of the best. Here are our favorites:

1) Amedei Cioccolato al Latte Bianco, $11.95
If you crave pure, unadorned white chocolate, then the pricey Amedei bar cannot be beat. It is rich, silky and creamy - all things that pure white chocolate should be. I first learned of the sibling pair (Cecilia and Alessio Tessieri) who own Amedei in Mort Rosenblum's excellent book, Chocolate: A Bittersweet Saga Of Dark and Light. Unlike most chocolate companies, they are involved in the entire chocolate making process, from drying and fermenting beans on the plantation to conching and tempering in their Tuscany factory. We preferred Amedei to other plain white chocolate bars like Green & Blacks and Chocovic.

2) Askinosie, $7.50
In June, Shawn Askinosie (whose company is based in Springfield, Missouri) unveiled three artisan white chocolate bars. They are unique in that the cocoa butter used all comes from one particular plantation - meaning that it can actually be called "single origin" white chocolate. Since the taste of cocoa butter really doesn't vary as much as the taste of cacao from region to region, I'm not all that impressed by his single origin concept. But I do like some of the flavor combinations he's developed. And we can all feel good about enjoying Askinosie because they give cacao farmers a "stake in the outcome."

* The White Chocolate bar - Not as sweet, luscious and creamy as the Amedei bar. The pale golden color is unlike any other white chocolate I've tasted. This was not a huge hit.
* The Nibble Bar - This was a big favorite. The crunchiness of the cacao nibs (and of course the chocolate flavor) is a perfect contrast next to the smooth white chocolate.
* The Pistachio Bar - We liked the addition of organic, salted pistachios to white chocolate. The flavor of a pistachio is quite mild so it does not overpower the taste of the white chocolate. But we preferred the crunchier texture of the Nibble Bar.

3) Vosges D'Oliva Exotic Bar, $7.50
Katrina Markoff's contribution to the white chocolate world is this kalamata olive and white chocolate bar. Olives and chocolate - we all expected to hate this! But it was surprisingly good. The salty, subtle taste of olives was a nice counterpart to the creamy white chocolate. We feel very good about eating Vosges chocolate because, in a sea of male-owned chocolate companies, Markoff is one of the only women. And we appreciate Vosges' dedication to being a "green" business.

4) Chocolat Weiss White Chocolate with Red-Fruit Bar, $5.25
One can only eat so much pure white chocolate. That's why we were happiest with the bars that combined white chocolate with another tasty ingredient, in this case raspberries, strawberries and cherries. We thought the tart red fruits were an ideal match with sweet white chocolate. A bit of lemon provides a little more acid. And Weiss takes the award for most elegant packaging; this slim silver and pink bar would make an excellent gift. Weiss is a French company that has been around since 1882. Chocosphere carries a wide selection of Weiss bars.

Starbucks Milk Chocolate: maybe stick to lattes

2008-06-25T15:54:00.000-07:00

I love Starbucks. I know I should be supporting those mom and pop neighborhood coffee shops, but there is something about the green siren logo that just draws me in. When I spent a sleepless semester studying theater in London, Starbucks was my savior. Something familiar, a cozy place to juice up before hitting another 4 hour long Shakespearean production. After having my first child, walking to Starbucks for a nonfat latte was the best part of my day (provided he didn't wake up screaming the moment it was served!). And when I taught high school English, the Mill Valley Starbucks shop gave me the courage and energy to get through another day of cajoling freshmen into reading Great Expectations.

And so I was not opposed to Starbucks entering the world of fine chocolate. Would I eat chocolate with my coffee? Most definitely not. But if I'm wandering the Tenderloin before an ACT production, desperate for a sweet treat, Starbucks chocolate could be just the answer.

I was not surprised to find that most of the Starbucks chocolate sold at my local Safeway (and not my Starbucks!) contains coffee. There is a mocha bar and packages of truffles with flavors like milk chocolate mocha, dark chocolate espresso, and milk chocolate chai. I decided to taste the milk chocolate bar first, while comparing it to some other milk chocolate bars I had in my chocolate stash. The objects of comparison? Green and Black milk chocolate and Scharffen Berger milk chocolate. Since Artisan Confections (Hershey's high end line, which includes Scharffen Berger) actually makes Starbucks chocolate, I had somewhat high expectations. I had also heard rumors that the Starbucks milk tastes exactly like the Scharffen Berger milk.

That rumor couldn't be further from the truth. We found the Starbucks chocolate surprisingly flat, with a sickly sweet aftertaste reminiscent of a candy bar. It was nothing like the mellow tones of caramel and honey I enjoy in the Scharffen Berger milk. I even preferred the sweet Green and Blacks milk to Starbucks. And of course, there are other milk bars out there (like the Michel Cluizel Mangaro ) with a much richer flavor, with fruity notes and high cacao percentages that even appeal to dark chocolate lovers. Starbucks does not publish information on cacao percentage or bean origin on the labels of their chocolate bars. Clearly, they're not focusing on a high end market.

When I'm in the mood for some sweet filled chocolate and need an energy boost, maybe I'll pick up some of the Starbucks truffles. (Too bad they don't sell them by the piece in their coffee shops.) But when it comes to bars, I'll stick to my old favorites and stick to lattes at Starbucks.

Chocolate for Mother's Day: Think Pink!

2008-05-05T17:20:00.000-07:00

Just as newborn girls are given mounds of pink dresses and onesies, on Mother's Day we moms are treated to pink cards, pink flowers and yes, even pink chocolate. I've spent the last couple days searching online for the best Mother's Day chocolate gifts (aside from the SF Gourmet Chocolate Tour, of course!). For the past two weeks, I've been getting emails from local and national chocolate companies touting new products or special offers or just simply reminding me why chocolate is the perfect gift for Mom. When I visited most of these web sites, I was a little disappointed by the lack of creativity. After all, this is Chocolate's last big holiday before a long, long summer of quiet sales.

For example, visit a See's right now and you'll be assaulted by Pink. Their Mother's Day Keepsake Box ($14.95) is shiny pink, wrapped in pink ribbon and topped with a giant pink and purple flower. The chocolate assortment includes 4 pink foil covered milk chocolates. Perfect for grandma maybe, but not for the modern Mom.

Here are my three favorite chocolate Mother's Day gifts, followed by a couple honorable mentions.
1) The Chuao ChocoPod Purse
I love this gift because it involves a fashion accessory no woman can get enough of and chocolate. Did I mention the purse is not even pink? Chuao says the mini purse is inspired by the Louis Vuitton Multicolore Murakami design, and indeed it looks stylish enough for a Gossip Girl episode. The purse is filled with 3 "ChocoPods" in banana, passion fruit and strawberry. I've never tried Chuao "ChocoPods" and as an adamant non-dieter, am wary of their description: "slim, 60 calorie, 11-gram bars." But it's very clever marketing that I'm guessing would be successful in Southern California. At $4.75 the ChocoPod Purse is a bargain, and deserves to be combined with something else, like their "ChocolateSmarts" cards or their "Elegancia Jewelry Box."
Chuao (pronounced chew-WOW) is a chocolate company founded in 2002 by two Venezuelan brothers in San Diego. The name comes from the renowned cacao-producing region in central Venezuela. Here in the Bay Area you can find their chocolates at Cost Plus, Whole Foods, Bristol Foods and even Safeway.

2) Vosges Mother's Day Hat Box
Given Katrina Markoff's penchant for purple, I can't expect her Mother's Day offerings to take leave entirely of the pastel world. With a fun nod to an old fashioned ideal of motherhood, Vosges takes a beautiful hat box and fills it with sweet chocolates whose names are meant to appeal to women. (No wasabi or bacon in this one!) For $95, Mom will enjoy Caramel Toffee and an Exotic Caramel box, plus Bianca Couture Cocoa (white chocolate with lemon myrtle and lavender). The hatbox also includes the new Les Fleurs du Chocolat Collection, which will save you money on flowers too. Each truffle is topped with an organic flower petal: marigold, nasturtium, rose and orchid.

Katrina's description of her inspiration is worth repeating simply for her colorful adjectives:
"I had conjured up an image of a free-spirited lady who traveled the globe seeking out the avant-garde, obscure, traditional and elegant. She would embody a classy-yet-edgy style all of her own, a little quirky yet polished at the same time. Then I saw a pile of vintage hatboxes at the Broadway Antique Mart and thought: ah, perfect. The Vosges Haut-Chocolat boîte à chapeau is meant to evoke this lovely lady, her luxury, her travels, her individuality."

3) Recchiuti Burnt Caramels
The product itself is nothing new. Michael Recchiuti has been making his signature burnt caramels for a long time, and they get re-packaged nearly every holiday season with new designs. But this is one design I love! The colors are stylish yet understated - pale green, white and brown. There is a modern silhouette of a flower on one, but no curlicues or ruffles, thank you. The 8 piece collection sells for $19.00.

If you're still not satisfied, I'd also recommend the Charles Chocolate Mother's Day Collection. This $60 edible chocolate box is filled with peanut butterflies, fleur de sels and Poire Williams caramel - many topped with a tasteful pink flower motif. Each Mother's Day gift comes with a free letterpress greeting card. For a more traditional chocolate gift, Joseph Schmidt offers the Floral Vase Box for $35. It's shaped like a bouquet and has some flavors that would make the French faint: peanut butter & jelly, orange sherbert and double latte.

The San Francisco International Chocolate Salon

2008-04-19T11:27:00.000-07:00

The words "Chocolate Salon" conjure up images of quiet sophistication to me - French men in suits and women in little black dresses taking measured bites of chocolate and making careful notes while the chocolatiers squirm, hoping for a fine review. Maybe somewhere this European fantasy of mine exists, but it wasn't to be last Sunday at the 2nd Annual San Francisco International Chocolate Salon.

I love that Taste TV has brought the concept of a Chocolate Salon to San Francisco. Judging by the lines that snaked around the Fort Mason buildings all the way to the parking entrance, there is real interest among local chocolate lovers. On such an unusually warm day, hopeful attendees read books and socialized while waiting to be let into the two stuffy meeting rooms that were crammed almost shoulder to shoulder with people. No doubt the price was right - $20 for as much chocolate as you could snatch from over 40 fine local chocolatiers.

As a member of the tasting panel (not to mention 8 months pregnant!), I was grateful to skip the line and bring my Gourmet Walks tour guides with me. There were some unusual diversions - chocolate hair styling, chocolate body art - scheduled for Sunday morning, but I headed straight for the chocolate so I could somehow fulfill my duty of choosing winners for at least 15 different categories before my palate was hopelessly confused.

I met up with some old favorites, including several chocolatiers who were present at the Singles Chocolate Salon this fall: XOX, Sacred, the Xocolate Bar. But there were also many new participants, including big names like Scharffen Berger, Ghirardelli and Guittard. My favorite part was getting the chance to chat with many of the actual chocolatiers. I met the talented Christopher Elbow, whose Hayes Street shop is his first retail location to open outside of Kansas City. Art Pollard was there, of the much acclaimed Amano Chocolate, who won the "Best Dark" award both last year and this year. I enjoyed talking with Charles Siegel of Charles Chocolates, whose delicious chocolate covered matzoh I'll be sampling for tomorrow's seder. And finally, the founder of Choco-Luxe shared with me her plans to open a shop in the Haight this summer.

I sampled as much as I could, and made note of one smart strategy - two women brought tupperware containers to fully stock up on chocolate from just about every booth. Wise, but it just doesn't seem fair! In the midst of all the freebies, some of the chocolatiers were making sales, including Cosmic Chocolates and their sleeper hit: the Obama truffle. There is Obama's smiling face in blue cocoa butter, surrounding a creamy espresso and cognac ganache center. Very masculine - and no plans yet for a Hillary. Apparently Cosmic sees a big spike in orders every time a new primary hits. I was intrigued by a new company, Jade Chocolates, whose spectacular packaging is all organic and recyclable. They specialize in flavored chocolates using fine ingredients from Asia and the Pacific Islands. I tried the "Dragon's Breath" bar, composed of 65% cacao, roasted sesame seeds, lapang souchong and ground red chili. Too spicy for me, but fans of Katrina Markoff's Vosges bars may find these exotic bars appealing.

And the winners? It looks like Taste TV wisely wittled down the long list of categories to what is listed below. I found we agreed on everything except "Most Luxurious Chocolate" - a confusing category for the average chocolate enthusiast.

Best Dark Chocolate: Amano Artisan Chocolate
Best Milk Chocolate: Scharffen Berger Chocolate Maker
Best Truffle: XOX Truffles
Most Luxurious Chocolate Experience: XOX Truffles
Best Dark Chocolate Bar: Amano Artisan Chocolate
Best Organic or Fair Trade Products: Sacred Chocolate
Most Gifted Chocolatier: Christopher Elbow Artisanal Chocolate
Complimentary Mention: Trader Joe's Bottled Water
Not an Award but Needs to be Mentioned: Obama Chocolates by Cosmic Chocolates

I was glad to hear that Taste TV plans on another SF Chocolate Salon next year, but with a few improvements - including a bigger space, and maybe raising the entrance fee. In the meantime, how can I get myself and 3 kids to the Salon Du Chocolat in Paris this fall?

Review: In Search of the Heart of Chocolate

2008-04-06T13:50:00.000-07:00

Can you be a chocolate addict? Can chocolate enhance your love life? Are the regulars who shop at Chocolate Covered more than just a little bizarre? These are the questions Sarah Feinbloom begins to explore in her "chocumentary," In Search of the Heart of Chocolate. The film was perfectly timed to be released on Valentine's Day, with chocolate tastings and discussions at the San Francisco premiere. And although I was out of the country that week, Feinbloom was kind enough to send me a copy.

The film's luxurious subject and humorous tone is far removed from the subjects Feinbloom usually tackles in her documentaries (e.g., child trafficking, youth violence, religion). While she could have focused on plantation slave labor or the rise of organic chocolate, she sticks to a more complicated topic - what is it about chocolate that provokes such passion, such intensity, such love? And the results are a lot of fun to watch.

After making the acquaintance of Jack Epstein, the owner of Noe Valley's Chocolate Covered, Feinbloom is introduced to a number of San Francisco chocolate aficionados whose interviews appear in the film. She intersperses clips of these interviews with slices of her own chocolate past and a bit of information on chocolate history and production. Feinbloom confesses that she is a chocoholic (and why we would trust this kind of film made by anyone else!) and dramatizes one pivotal event from her chocolate-laden childhood; her mother wakes her late at night and they sit at the kitchen table surreptitiously eating chocolate sauce with a spoon right out of the jar.

But rather than lecture us on her own chocolate preferences and habits, Feinbloom keeps us laughing by showcasing the quirky Chocolate Covered customers who seem to live for chocolate. Epstein, who admits he prefers greasy and salty foods like potato chips to chocolate, actually offers his own kind of "therapy" for customers who can't deal with the guilt or have no understanding of moderation when it comes to consuming chocolate. And although he encounters plenty of SF locals who can't go a day without chocolate, he is opposed to using the word "addict." I've read the studies too that show chocolate cannot be addictive, but Feinbloom's interviews do make me think twice.

Feinbloom introduces us to the "100 percenter," otherwise known as Richard, an ex-hippie turned serious chocolate connoisseur who approaches tasting chocolate with an almost scary intensity. As he suckles his 100% Domori (an acquired taste, he admits), Richard clues Feinbloom into the psychoanalytic qualities of this chocolate. He insists that the colors in his garden become brighter and more intense, as Feinbloom zooms in to capture this effect. Much like an interview on The Daily Show, Feinbloom need do very little but let her subjects talk. What we get is pure entertainment.

And then there is Suzanne, whose chocolate routine consists of eating chocolate in the morning, in the afternoon and at night. She begins by asking Feinbloom to sample one of her favorite dark bars, but it doesn't take long before she is pointing out the chocolate colored paints she favors and a new chocolate colored sweater - both testament to her obsession. She fingers the delicate brown beading on the sweater with as much care as the chocolate bars she buys nearly every day from Chocolate Covered. At the end of the interview, she says "I could stop though," but we all know the truth.

I encounter a wide range of chocolate lovers and fanatics on my Chocolate Tours, but never anyone quite as interesting as Suzanne and Richard. This is the gritty, authentic (and foggy) world of chocolate - a long way from the slick downtown boutiques we visit on my tours. Chocolate Covered is actually on the basement level, lacking artfully designed window displays or tables for late-night drinking chocolate parties. I thank Sarah Feinbloom for bringing us this nugget of San Francisco chocolate life.

If you're interested in watching the film for yourself, it's available for purchase on her web site for $19.99, plus shipping and handling. The film is 25 minutes long.
It will also be screened at the San Francisco International Chocolate Salon on April 13th. Feinbloom and I will both be members of the "Tasting Panel," and I'm looking forward to meeting her.

Christopher Elbow on Hayes

2008-03-31T10:05:00.000-07:00

It's 9 pm on a Friday night and you're due to meet a friend for a drink in Hayes Valley. Maybe you're pregnant, or your friend is 12, or maybe you're just looking for something a little different and non-alcoholic - that's where the new Christopher Elbow Chocolate Bar makes perfect sense.

Located on the corner of Hayes and Gough, the Christopher Elbow boutique opened in February with a chocolate counter and a separate bar area that is open until 10 pm. The decor is minimalist and sleek, with the rich reds and browns that make their packaging so distinct. The bar looks like a "chill-out" lounge area in a club, and makes me wonder if chocolate martinis are on the horizon. But for now, they offer a drinking chocolate menu with a wide variety of flavors, including "chinese 5 spice," "coconut curry," and "peanut butter." Purists can simply order hot chocolate American or European style, a mocha, or an extra dark. All drinks are priced at $4.50.

According to Elbow, his chocolate powder is made from pure ground El Rey chocolate. Good choice!

I've always enjoyed pointing out Christopher Elbow chocolate on my Tours because guests are so impressed by their beautiful, artistic appearance. Nowhere else in San Francisco can you find such vivid colors and glossy sheens on filled chocolates. I know many classic French or Swiss chocolatiers would scoff at the designs and flavor combinations, but Christopher Elbow appeals to plenty of Americans who want more than a simple "palet d'or."

I sampled a 9 piece box of chocolates from Elbow's Fall/Winter Collection for $20. I like the fact that instead of weighing chocolates and charging by the pound, Christopher Elbow chocolates are simply $2 a piece. Of course, you'll save by purchasing the larger boxes (42 for $75) and I always recommend choosing the chocolates yourself to ensure that your box is as fresh as it can be. Some of the chocolates were too goopy and syrupy for my taste, such as the "fleur de sel," the "lavender" and the "cabernet." (I much prefer the Rechiutti version of a fleur de sel with a more solid ganache.) The "bananas foster" made me forget I was even in a chocolate shop. My favorites were the "vanilla bean," the "fresh lime" and any of the 70% cacao ganaches, such as the "Venezuelan dark" and the "Madagascar."

So will the concept of a chocolate bar take off? Time will tell. And while not everything Christopher Elbow sells suits me, I'm very happy that San Francisco is the first retail location Elbow decided to open after his Kansas City flagship store. Elbow is young and not afraid to experiment. I look forward to sampling his Spring/Summer collection!

Get Your Belgian Chocolate Fix at Leonidas SF

2008-03-16T14:41:00.001-07:00

Why buy your secretary another box of Godiva chocolates when there is a new Leonidas in the city? If you love Belgian chocolate, visit Leonidas in their spacious new shop on the ground level of the Crocker Galleria. Your dollar will also go much further at Leonidas, whose $30/pound price is so incredibly reasonable in the world of imported international chocolates. If you don't know what makes Belgian chocolate different from any other kind of chocolate, read on...

Belgians love rich, sweet and creamy filled chocolates. In fact, it was the Belgians (Jean Neuhaus) who first invented the filled chocolate in 1912 and named it a "praline." (Not the same as praliné, which is a mixture of hazelnut and chocolate.) Jean's wife invented the chocolate box (or ballotin) a few years later. Can you imagine the world of high and low end chocolate today without the beautiful packaging and exotic flavors? If you're still not convinced of Belgian's chocolate heritage, just take a look at the amazing number of chocolate museums, demonstrations, events and tours this country offers.

The Leonidas shop offers a wide selection of truffles, butter creams, pralines and liquor-filled chocolates. Unlike the other chocolate shops we visit on our tours, they have creative names for each piece. For example, the "Desiree" is white chocolate with butter cream and pineapple. Yes, the Belgians and the Swiss do not turn their noses up at white chocolate! Or the "Mystere," a dark chocolate butter cream with pistachio. (Wasn't that a Cirque du Soleil hit?) I like the Carré Croquant, a milk chocolate praliné with crisp rice (as in chocolate rice krispie treat!) It's also worth trying their "Pearls," or round chocolate balls that resemble the classic French truffle. Some are dipped in cocoa powder, others in coconut or powder sugar.

Like most of the new chocolate shops, Leonidas also offers a drink menu. What I love is that each drink comes with a free piece of filled chocolate! They say the hot chocolate is made from melted chocolate with steamed milk. It is good, but definitely not the best I've had in the city. It would be great if Leonidas, like Schoggi and Christopher Elbow, had tables and chairs to sit and sip. The modern, clean interior is welcoming and never very crowded. But with the Crocker Galleria tables and heat lamps just outside the shop, there are plenty of spots to linger and enjoy your Belgian treats.

Gourmet Chocolate Brownies

2008-02-22T15:39:00.000-08:00

Facing yet another afternoon of nonstop rain in San Francisco, I decided making brownies with my son would kill at least one bleak hour and keep us safe and warm. My chocolate drawer was also overflowing with leftover bars from my Chocolate Tours. And so I looked for a recipe that called for 70% cacao chocolate, rather than the standard 99 or 100% with plenty of sugar added for sweetness.

I settled on a very simple brownie recipe from Scharffen Berger, titled "John's Favorite Brownies." (John, as in the winemaker partner to physician Robert Steinberg, who happened to have the better chocolate sounding name.) Since I didn't have any extra bittersweet bars on hand, I compiled pieces from a bunch of half-enjoyed Amano Madagascar bars, always a favorite on my tours. When I realized I didn't quite have enough, I made a move that would shock any good pastry chef; I mixed in a couple of squares from the Amano Ocumare bar and the Michel Cluizel Maralumi bar. At last - 6 ounces of fine chocolate.

I'm guessing my 2 1/2 year old has had a different kind of exposure to chocolate than other kids his age. Most moms I know stay away from the stuff with more fervor than even a BPA contaminated sippy cup. These are the same Moms who boast of their Halloween solution - their kids turn in all their candy in exchange for a toy. Given the amount of chocolate in our house, I just can't say "no" when my son watches me unwrap a bar and lead a taste test with a couple of friends. And the 70% dark imported chocolate? He likes it! After he munched on a 1 ounce square of the Amano Madagascar, I was was sure these brownies would be a big hit.

The recipe is easy enough that any toddler can feel like he is helping. My son stirred the chocolate and butter in a double boiler, and then had fun stirring the sugar into the melted chocolate "until the white stuff went away." 30 minutes later we were rewarded with warm brownies. They were only about 1/2 inch thick but so rich that I cut them into 1 inch squares. After dinner that night we settled down to that perfect domestic scene - a brownie each and a shared cup of milk.

It didn't take long for my son to pronounce his opinion. "I don't like this brownie. It has a cracker on the top. I don't like this cracker on the brownie." The "cracker" my son was referring to was the extremely thin crusty layer on top of the brownie. So much for my sophisticated toddler. But I went to bed that night happy with the knowledge that my son would not be pestering me for brownies all week, and there would be no need for that ever-present maternal emotion - guilt.

Schoggi Joins Shops on Yerba Buena Lane

2008-01-25T15:04:00.000-08:00

Yearning for milky, creamy imported Swiss chocolate? Teuscher now has some competition in San Francisco - Schoggi. This new boutique is tucked behind the Four Seasons on Yerba Buena Lane. The pedestrian street is on its way to becoming a foodie haven, with Japan's Beard Papa and a new wine bar, The Press Club, scheduled to open in a few months.

The name "Schoggi" comes from the Swiss-German word for chocolate. (Who knew?) When I stopped by on a Wednesday afternoon, the shop was a serene oasis from the bustle of Market Street and Westfield Center. Schoggi's long marble counter ensures each artfully displayed chocolate has plenty of breathing room. Unlike the small, crowded chocolate shops in Union Square, Schoggi offers tables, chairs and even a unisex restroom. It's a great place to enjoy a cup of coffee or hot chocolate in peace. The smooth, blonde wood and tall ceilings create a modern feel not often associated with Swiss chocolates.

At $65 a pound, Schoggi is not inexpensive - but still less than Teuscher's current $78 a pound. Like most international chocolatiers, Schoggi produces their chocolate in Switzerland, "using an old family recipe" according to the manager. But so far San Francisco is their only retail location. I tried a variety of truffles, but my favorite was the Schoggi "ice square." The subtle mint flavor was refreshing, especially after lunch.

I'll return to Schoggi, and may even consider adding them to my chocolate tours. And the next international chocolate shop scheduled to open in SF? Leonidas. Stay tuned...

Sugar-free Chocolate

2007-12-18T14:55:00.000-08:00

I often get inquiries from customers on my Chocolate Tours about sugar-free chocolate. While I tend to stay away from anything labeled "sugar-free," "fat free" or "low carb," I do know that Fog City News offers the best sugar-free selection I've seen in San Francisco. Up until last Wednesday, I hadn't a clue whether the bars even tasted like chocolate. Something about the use of malitol as a sweetener still makes me hesitate.

The Chronicle's weekly "Taster's Choice" was dedicated to sugar free bars. They sampled 11 varieties, most from Fog City News, and came up with two winners: Michael Mischer and Charlemagne. Surprisingly, third place went to Godiva, not a typical favorite of chocolate connoisseurs. If you hit Fog City sometime in the next week or so, you might even get a free sample.

Check out the full report on SF Gate.

What is it about a British Candy Bar?

2007-12-14T13:46:00.000-08:00

Every so often I meet someone on my Chocolate Tours who has no interest in the "fancy stuff." Unimpressed by a Recchiuti burnt caramel truffle, bored by a Scharffen Berger bittersweet nibby bar, appalled by a Richart carrot coulis - he wants something sweet. And most Americans have grown up equating chocolate with sugar. After all, if Hershey's contains less than 10% cacao, it's no mystery what's in the rest of it.

But we aren't the only country addicted to sweet candy bars. A visit to the newly opened Fiona's Sweetshoppe in Union Square reminded me that the British candy bar is in no danger of being steamrolled by the artisan chocolate movement. Curly Wurlys, Milky Bars, Crunchies, Mars Bars, the Cadbury Flake - Fiona carries them all and they are selling. This miniature shop is really dedicated to candy first and foremost. Fiona, a British MD on leave, is surrounded by glass jars of candy with the most beguiling names: "liquorice broomsticks," "coconut mushrooms," "sherbet strawberries," and "toffeed brazils." It is an expat's paradise; in my short visit I witnessed several women pop in for particular tastes they enjoyed from their childhood, but can't find anywhere else in San Francisco.

This summer Kim Severson at the NY Times reported on the obsessive pride many Brits have for their kind of candy bars. They turn up their noses at Hershey, pointing out a waxy taste that will never match rich, creamy British bars. Both have plenty of vegetable fat, sugar and artificial flavors, but the owner of Tea and Sympathy claims that the British use fewer stabilizers and that's why their bars taste better.

Before I left the store, Fiona offered me a "Fry's Turkish Delight" bar - something I remembered from the British novels I used to curl up with as a child...Ah yes, the Chronicles of Narnia! Edmond is seduced by the White Witch when she offers him as much Turkish Delight as he can eat. (Liesl Schillinger wrote a funny piece for Slate on this titled "The Lion, the Witch and the Really Foul Candy") Now that's a bargain that wouldn't go far with any American child, for whom flowers and chocolate just don't mix. The Turkish Delight bar is simply rose flavored jelly surrounded by milk chocolate. Just one sniff convinced me to repurpose it as a 6th night of Chanukah gift for my husband, who said it tasted like soap. Old chocolate habits die hard.

Produce Aisle Meets Chocolate Box: Richart's Festive Garden

2007-12-09T14:12:00.000-08:00

Gingerbread, peppermint, cranberry...Ah, the comforting but predictable flavors of the holiday season. "Mais non!" says Michel Richart. The "Festive Garden" holiday collection that debuted last week at Richart includes potato, celery root, tomato, carrot and corn. Despite its old school origins, Richart prides itself on pushing the envelope with flavor and form. But this time, have they gone too far?

On Friday evening I attended a Tasting Party at Richart's Union Square boutique. Francophiles and chocophiles enjoyed glasses of port and zinfindel while trying to decode the new flavors laid out for sampling. Like the Petit Richart collection, the Festive Garden chocolates are all exactly the same size, but it takes some pattern recognition, color matching and French translation to figure out what exactly you are going to eat.

I must confess that when it comes to chocolate, I am not a swashbuckling adventurer. Chocolate falls into the dessert category, and I like my desserts sweet. Some of the notorious Vosges bars (with bacon, curry and wasabi) are still languishing in my cupboard uneaten. But I did enjoy some of the milder flavor combinations from the Festive Garden:
* Caramelized celery root coulis on a bed of ganache flavored with mild spices
* Pear coulis on a bed of cassis de Dijon ganache (Dijon the town, not the mustard!)
* Pumpkin coulis on a bed of chamomile flower ganache

My least favorite was the "tomato on a bed of basil ganache." Even though I stopped by the party before dinner, I still wasn't quite ready for an appetizer! After trying the "kalamanzi in soy milk ganache on a bed of carrot coulis," one of my companions noted "it was like someone hid the baby food in my truffle." Yet my French friend could not get enough of these chocolates, dashing back for just one more sample when the saleswoman disappeared momentarily. Although these flavors have not scored highly for clients on my San Francisco Gourmet Chocolate Tour, the manager of the San Francisco boutique assures me that overall customer response has been quite good.

The Festive Garden collection costs $74.50 for the large 37 piece box and $33 for the small 16 piece collection. At an average of $120/pound, Richart is likely the most expensive chocolate in San Francisco. But where else can you find a little kalamanzi in your chocolate?

A Chocolatey Walk down Chestnut

2007-12-05T12:54:00.000-08:00

On a sunny weekday morning when parking is plentiful, try taking a walk down Chestnut Street and sampling the Marina's best chocolate boutiques. Last week I began with a cup of the "Venetian hot chocolate" at the Emporio Rulli Gran Caffe, at Chestnut and Scott. This stuff is thick and rich, though the brand of chocolate used is reportedly "top secret." The Rulli empire (with locations now in Union Square, Larkspur and SFO) offers some tempting pastries too, but I suggest holding off because there are many more chocolate delights to be sampled.

Walk a couple blocks down Chestnut and pop into Moonstruck Chocolate Cafe. Moonstruck is based in Portland, Oregon and has been around since 1993. With another location in Walnut Creek, the cafes feature Moonstruck's full line of scrumptious looking truffles and a wide range of hot and cold chocolate beverages as well. I sampled Moonstruck's most famous item, the "cream cone." The mini cone is dark chocolate and the ice cream is a French silk cream decorated with pastel icing. These chocolates are decidedly American; in fact Moonstruck is quite proud of having been the official chocolatier for both the 78th and 77th Academy Awards. (And what number are we on now, anyway?)

Cross the street and you'll find a relative newcomer to the Chestnut chocolate scene - Luvbox. This shop is a bit mysterious. They say they don't make their chocolates here, but that they use several different Belgian "suppliers." Yet doing a Google search on the company name led me nowhere. In any case, they offer a range of fresh chocolates and truffles, plus pre-packaged bars and gifts. Their bars mimic the Michael Mischer packaging - a clear plastic box with whole nuts on top of the chocolate This tiny store, decorated in gold and crimson, makes you feel like you are inside a precious jewel box. I especially enjoyed the lemon ganache and the orange chocolate truffle from Luvbox.

And finally, if you've still got a taste for chocolate, I recommend circling back to Scott Street and lining up for Kara's Cupcakes. This adorable shop (perfect for little girls who adore pink) offers at least a couple chocolate cupcakes every day, including the "chocolate velvet," the "Ghirardelli chocolate" and the "vanilla chocolate." At $3 a piece, each cupcake is moist and beautiful. Kara, a Tante Marie cooking school graduate, is especially proud of the local ingredients used in her cupcakes. In fact, I've never seen a place go so far as provide a color coded map outlining exactly where each ingredient was sourced, from the "diamond crystal salt" in Newark to the Clover dairy products in Petaluma. The chocolate she uses includes Ghirardelli, Scharffen Berger and (sometimes!) Callebaut.

Our San Francisco Gourmet Chocolate Tour covers downtown San Francisco right now, but it's possible we'll add a Marina tour in the future. We may even combine it with a wine tasting at Bin 38 or Nectar. Email me with your thoughts!

No Secrets at Charles Chocolate

2007-11-14T13:25:00.000-08:00

I've read about those chocolate factories (usually French) where secrecy is paramount. If you're lucky enough to attain a visit, chances are the machines will be covered in sheets and you'll be wearing a blindfold. But not so with Chuck Siegel's factory tours of Charles Chocolates. The 8700 square foot Emeryville factory opened for tours in August of '07 and also features a Chocolate Bar and retail store. Siegel's thinking, which sounds great to me, is to "demystify the art of being a chocolatier" by exposing his work to the general public. This is akin to restaurant open kitchens that became all the rage over a decade ago. Right now, there is nowhere else you can go in the Bay Area to see chocolate confections being made by hand.

Unlike Scharffen Berger, Charles does not let participants don hair nets, touch the chocolate machinery and inhale that peculiar smell of chocolate liquor. That's understandable, since creating confections is less automated than making bars and the chefs are all very focused on their individual tasks. Instead, you'll stand behind tall windows and watch the process unfold as your guide explains each step. Since Charles considers itself an artisanal chocolatier, they make their confections by hand depending on what has been ordered. So your visit to the factory could be different every time.

On my tour (Wednesday at 11:30), the chefs were busy creating gourmet rice krispie treats, peanut butter butterflies and caramel logs coated in peanuts. (Unlike the Swiss, somebody loves peanut over there!) I saw ganache cooling and solidifying before being enrobed in chocolate. I saw the praline being piped into butterfly molds - somewhat tedious when you have an order of over 1000. And I saw vast quantities of caramel logs entering the enrobing machine and exiting coated in chocolate and peanuts. A nice feature of the tour is that your guide can pop in and get you a sample hot off the conveyor belt. You can also inspect the cooking area where chefs whip up everything from fresh lemon meyer marmalade to mint ganache as well as the tempering machines, which allow Charles to process up to 700 pounds of chocolate at a time.

The tour lasts about 20 - 30 minutes and is free. There are two optional tasting packages as well. I sampled the $10 tasting, which gets you 5 pieces of chocolate and a cup of thick drinking chocolate. High rollers can experience the $75 deluxe tour, and you'll go home with an extravagant take-home gift set. I loved the design of the store and appreciated its emphasis on chocolate, unlike Scharffen Berger's endless supply of baby t-shirts and Curious George books. But when I visited the store was empty. I don't know whether Charles can attract enough interest to their Chocolate Bar and tours given the somewhat out-of-the way location, but I hope they do. For the true chocophile, it's certainly worth a visit.

Two Great Tastes: Gourmet Chocolate and Peanut Butter

2007-10-31T13:04:00.000-07:00

Every Halloween my Mom set out a bowl of Reese's Peanut Butter Cups by the front door. We waited and, invariably, no kids came a knocking. Who could blame them? "Hurricane Hill" was almost thirty minutes away from Falmouth's top Halloween destination, the Foreside, where Moms dressed up as witches and you could fill your candy bag in a single block. But no matter, the day after Halloween meant plenty of leftovers. I ate quickly, knowing it would be another year until I could savor the taste of chocolate and peanut butter again.

I've always thought Reese's Peanut Butter Cups were a part of the Hershey empire, but not so at first. In the 1920s, H.B. Reese quit the dairy farm business and moved to Hershey, Pennsylvania to produce peanut butter cups. In the 1930s they sold for just a penny a piece! It wasn't until 1963, when the popularity of the peanut butter cup was well established, that Hershey purchased the H.B. Reese Candy Company for $23.5 million.

Now that I've entered the world of slow, artisan produced, local, organic foods (i.e.,Food Snobbery), a peanut butter cup is a guilty pleasure. And while I still love the taste of peanut butter and chocolate, I don't like to think of all the sugar and additives in each Reese's Cup. So this Halloween I scouted out my favorite SF chocolate shops for the gourmet take on chocolate and peanut butter. While doing so, I learned that this combination is a decidedly American taste. Richart, my favorite French brand, does not dabble in peanut butter. And my gianduja loving friends at Teuscher almost laughed at the idea. "The Swiss consider the peanut an inferior nut, but Americans are always asking for it." And just what makes a nut superior?

My husband and I sampled filled chocolate from 6 different companies, and here are our finds:
#1 - Our Favorite
Joseph Schmidt Peanut Butter Chocolate Prailine
Schmidt's signature egg-shaped truffles are hard to resist. We liked this one the best because it didn't try to do too much with a classic flavor combination. Under the milk chocolate couverture, the dark chocolate forms a thin shell around the creamy peanut butter center. Yum!

#2 - Second Best
See's Peanut Butter Cup
I'm not a huge See's fan, but I knew they would succeed with an American favorite. See's offers, not one, but three chocolate peanut butter combinations. The saleswoman said "this one tastes like a Reese's Peanut Butter Cup, this one tastes like a Snickers and this one tastes like a Butterfinger." In that case, why don't I save my money and go by some candy bars? We liked the round peanut butter cup best, and actually didn't mind the 50 cents price - a bargain in the gourmet chocolate world!

#3
Vosges Organic Peanut Butter Bonbons
I am a sucker for marketing, and am always drawn to Vosges and their seductive packaging. Their copywriting is over the top but fun to read: "The Outcome: unparalleled, rich peanut butter-goodness, enhanced and intensified on your palate by mineral salt. Old fashioned tradition meets slight obsession." If only they had held back on some of those mineral salts. We felt Vosges went a little crazy with the pink Himalayan salt and the Fleur de Sel salt - too much, too jarring a taste next to the peanut butter and chocolate. Available at Fog City News.

#4
Recchiutti Peanut Butter Puck
I was prepared to love the Peanut Butter Puck, which Recchiutti tells me is always a best-seller in the fall. This enormous truffle is meant to resemble a hockey puck, a perfect shape for an American pleasure. But there was a peculiar taste to the filling, maybe it was simply the Fleur de Sel, that led us to leave much of it in its wrapper.

#5
Godiva Peanut Butter Cup
Godiva's "fresh" peanut butter cups were the real losers in our tasting. And at $4 a piece, they were also the most expensive. Godiva lays these treasures out by the window next to the chocolate covered strawberries and the pot of melted chocolate. Each is a large dark (or milk) chocolate oval filled with peanut butter and decorated with thin stripes of chocolate on top. It tastes simply like gooey natural peanut butter on a piece of chocolate, and it is very messy.

Next time the chocolate peanut butter urge hits, I hope you'll try some of the gourmet options I've suggested. And leave the Reese's for the Harry Potters and the Princesses with simpler tastes!

Chocolate for Singles

2007-10-21T15:27:00.001-07:00

My husband wasn't too worried when I told him I'd be checking out the Singles Chocolate Salon at Fort Mason Friday night. It'd be 95% women, or so he thought, especially with a fashion show as the main attraction. Yes, but if all men assumed, as he did, that the event would be packed with chocolate loving women, why wouldn't they show up and take advantage of those odds? And some would be sophisticated, able to taste the nuanced differences in single origin dark chocolate, not batting an eye at the $8 price of most fine bars. Or so I told my single friend Sue.

Well, my husband was right. Aside from a group of fraternity brothers in identical navy jackets who lingered by the door and then left, the pickings were slim and unappealing. But the chocolate? Fantastic. I hope Sue came to understand one of my favorite chocolate quotes: "Forget love, I'd rather fall in chocolate."

For the $25 ticket price, we had access to 7 different chocolate booths, all featuring local chocolatiers and plenty of free samples. We could also taste from some wineries and Hansen Natural Soda, a stop we returned to again and again since there was no water to be found. My favorite "non-chocolate" stop was Bliss Spa, a company I work with for my "Day of Beautiful Chocolate" private tour. Their interactive booth allowed us to sample 3 different brownies from local bakeries and vote on the best. The winning brownie, or so they claimed, would be served alongside the cucumber water as guests await their beauty treatments. Sue and I both voted for the cake-like brownie from Bittersweet Cafe; I don't know what chocolate they use, but it was intense and delicious.

It's too bad San Francisco Chocolate Salon did not find a more hip venue to host this event; the Fort Mason meeting room felt vast, damp and soulless. Lounge music lightened the mood somewhat, but I couldn't help but imagine how much cooler this would have been at a downtown spot like 111 Minna. Despite the lack of cool, I was still happy to talk to the different chocolatiers, all of whom were friendly and eager to share what makes their chocolate unique. Here are some of my favorites:

1. Cosmic Chocolate (Oakland)
I love the sexy appeal of Cosmic Chocolate's gorgeous chocolates. Their lines include "flavors that warm the heart," and truffles that are "spa inspired" and "cocktail inspired." The cocktail ones were my favorite, with tempting names like the "blushing geisha" (strawberry dacquiri flavored), the "beaming buddha" (limoncello ginger) and the "lucky leprechaun" (mint/chartreuse). Cosmic Chocolate's Founder, Carly Baumon, says she went to culinary school in New York but is a self-taught chocolatier. They have a small storefront in Oakland at 5002 Telegraph Avenue - perfect for my evolving East Bay Chocolate Tour.

2. The Xocolate Bar (San Rafael)
Malena and Clive, founders of San Rafael's The Xocolate Bar, put together the most compelling display in the salon. Chocolate skeletons (in honor of Day of the Dead), buddhas, Aztec shields and beautifully sculpted truffles with unusual flavor combinations. Malena and Clive, former rock'n'roll bandmates, say they try to honor chocolate's roots in Mesoamerica through their flavors and designs. The Xocolate Bar took two gold metals at this summer's SF Chocolate Salon and I can understand why. I sampled the mango tamarind truffle and it was fabulous. The Xocolate Bar is sold at Chocolate Covered in Noe Valley and online.

3. Rushburn Toffee (San Francisco)
"Men love it," said Stephanie Rush, founder of San Francisco's Rushburn Toffee. Dismayed by all the bad toffee out there, Stephanie's grandmother created "The Toffee Recipe" in the 70s and shared it with no one until a year before she died. Now we can all enjoy this coveted recipe in different varieties: English toffee with almonds, espresso toffee with almonds, and milk and dark chocolate toffee clusters. Though I'm not a toffee coinnosseur, my sweet tooth enjoyed the milk chocolate toffee cluster sample. And I love the packaging: a sleek, silver tin reminiscent of grandmothers and sweet treats.

4. Sacred Chocolate (San Rafael)
If you read my post on making raw chocolate, you'll know my friend Daniel (recent raw food convert) and understand why he would be enamored of Sacred Chocolate - the only company at the salon who focused on the health benefits to eating raw chocolate. With a bit of a cultish hippie following, David Wolf's Sacred chocolate was first unveiled at raw food retreats. He believes he's the only chocolatier who uses the nutrient-rich skin from the cacao bean. Yet even Wolf admits his chocolate is expensive - $10 for what looked to be a 2 oz heart-shaped bar. I liked the 65% mint bar and would recommend staying away from the 99%, no matter how healthy it is! Wolf doesn't appear to have a web site, but he does have a revealing My Space profile under the moniker "Soaring White Love Eage."

5. XOX Truffles (San Francisco)
Any San Francisco chocolate aficionado has got to be familiar with XOX Truffles. Now with a store in Montclair as well as North Beach, Chef Jean Marc Gorce has been in the business with his wife Casimira since 1997. They offer 27 different flavors of hand-made truffles, some dusted in cocoa powder, others coated in white chocolate, hazelnut or coconut. The chef himself manned the booth and I loved the caramel truffles we sampled.

If this event sounds appealing, visit the San Francisco International Chocolate Salon to read about what they've planned for 2008. Just don't expect "love at first sight."

What's a Chocophile to do?

2007-10-11T09:31:00.001-07:00

I'm not exactly a neat freak, but my haphazard system for storing chocolate bars is beginning to bother me. Open any kitchen cabinet drawer in my house and you'll find tin foil bundles of partially eaten bars. I've done my best to wrap each bar individually and keep them away from smelly onions, soy sauce and even other bars. But I tend to forget where I put them and when my mood calls for a 50% Michel Cluizel milk chocolate bar, tin foil goes flying.

So one day I envisioned the perfect invention for the chocolate connoisseur - a chocolate humidor. With dreams of Food Network appearances and a feature in Brookstone, I did a Google search just to make sure I was the only one with this brilliant idea. Darn. Of course there were some chocolate humidors out there, but nothing compared to the number and variety of wine cellars. Here is what I found:

Starting at the top, Richart sells a "Burlwood Chocolate Vault" for $825 as part of their "luxe" collection. Ouch. It looks like it belongs in a robberbaron's study, next to the shelves of rare books and the antique telephone. But at least the vault comes with 7 drawers of chocolates representing the Richart flavor profiles. The temperature and humidity gauges will keep the chocolate at the ideal temperature (12 degrees Celsius) until you're ready to indulge. And can you imagine your friends' reactions when you escort them after dinner to your chocolate vault?

If Richart's vault hints at old-money Manhattan mens' clubs, the Chocolate Cellar by Chocolate 15-18 is a sleek and modern machine that belongs in a DWR showroom. This Montreal based company defines itself through its attention to the proper storage of chocolate. For those of us not yet in the metric world, it may not be so apparent, but between 15 and 18 degrees Celsius is the ideal temperature for preserving chocolate. (Though Mr. Richart thinks differently.) Before eating, however, Chocolate 15-18 cautions you to bring the chocolate to room temperature for optimal tasting. The funny thing about the 15-18 cellar is that they will only loan it to you for a tasting party with the chocolate! No online sales yet.

And finally, for the mere price of 3 fine chocolate bars, you can buy the "Chocolador" by Chocolove. This product wins points for the most creative name, but it is really nothing more than a cute box made of "African Okoume." Unlike the Richart or 10-15, Chocolove doesn't offer any temperature control, making it a useless for the hot, humid summers experienced by those who don't live in the Bay Area. But at $19, the chocolador is a bargain because it includes 8 different Chocolove bars, tasting notes and of course, the Chocolove poems.

Many chocolate enthusiasts scoff at this neurotic attention to the storage of something that demands to be eaten immediately. On a Chowhound message board devoted to chocolate storage, one member writes "What's this nonsense about storing chocolate? Open your mouth, insert chocolate, chew, and it's stored." Ed Charles, an Australian food writer, says, "I have a place reserved for the Chocolate 15-18 chocolate humidor right between my truffle brush and my novelty apron."

Sorry "floydramp," Maybe I've done too many chocolate tours, but I simply can't down an entire 3.5 oz gourmet chocolate bar the moment I purchase it. I guess I'm a chocolate packrat. Since I don't have $825 and borrowing a cellar from Montreal seems absurd, I'll be heading down to the basement shortly to develop my chocolate humidor prototype! If you have any suggestions for clever, catchy names, email me at anadel@gourmetwalks.com.

Some Like it Raw

2007-09-30T14:56:00.000-07:00

My friend Daniel just got back from a weekend with friends in the Catalina Islands. Sounds like a perfectly normal way to spend time if you live in LA. Well, there was a catch. The only food they could eat was raw honey, fresh fruit and raw chocolate. So rapturous was this experience that Daniel, knowing my love of chocolate, insisted I make raw chocolate immediately. And I mean immediately. We abandoned drinks at COCO 500 for a bit of a wild goose chase around SOMA, seeking out ingredients. He promised it would be the best chocolate I ever tasted.

We found agave nectar and coconut oil down the block at Whole Foods, and raw cocoa powder at Rainbow. Rainbow also carries cocoa butter, but that would not do. We needed raw cocoa butter, and that I ordered later that evening from Sunfood Nutrition. I love their cookbook titles: Uncooking with RawRose, RAWvolution.

Daniel was adamant about all ingredients being raw, because that is the only way you can enjoy the maximum health benefits of chocolate. More antioxidants, more flavonols, more magnesium. Online companies promoting raw cacao products make a staggering array of claims on this, as though eating chocolate is just the same as taking your vitamins.

Armed with our raw ingredients, we looked over the simple recipe. Compared to the complex and labor-intensive process that real chocolatiers follow, it hardly seemed fair. Could this really result in the best chocolate I ever tasted?

Raw chocolate
* 1 cup of raw cacao powder
* 1/2 cup grated raw cocoa butter
* 5 T of coconut oil
* 1/3 cup of agave nectar
Measure the cacao powder into a large bowl. Add the oil and mix well until all lumps are blended. Mix in the cocoa butter. When the chocolate is at a smooth, creamy consistency, you are done! At this point, you may experiment with adding vanilla or cinnamon (raw of course) to the chocolate and then mold into whatever shapes please you.

When we finished mixing and molding, our little chocolate balls did not look like much. The texture was a bit gritty, about the consistency of cookie dough. They tasted like chocolate, which actually surprised me, but they also tasted like sunscreen. Too much cocoa butter, maybe too much coconut oil? My husband and I each ate one, while my son licked the bowl. But the rest of them languished in the fridge for a week until I finally tossed them.

I'm still intrigued by the idea of raw chocolate. But maybe I needed to be invited to a Catalina Party for the magic to overtake me. In the meantime, my next project is to read Naked Chocolate by David Wolfe. While I'm not quite ready to invest in a food dehydrator and a juicer (essentials of a raw-foodists kitchen), I would like to make at least one raw chocolate recipe that doesn't smell like the beach.

What a Label: Askinosie

2007-09-23T13:07:00.000-07:00

Everyone is in a rush to check out the new Barney's, but I'm just as happy to browse our city's best chocolate specialty shops. Bittersweet Cafe displays their bars on the walls like the works of art they are. I stopped by on Friday and was drawn to a bar I had never seen before - Askinosie, 70% dark chocolate. I'd heard of the Missouri based company's strong commitment to Fair Trade chocolate, but it was the unique packaging that convinced me to try it.

The bar's wrapping looks like an ordinary brown grocery bag, tied at the top with rough twine. And if you're still not convinced this kind of packaging is natural, the labels assures "the tie that binds this package is from a biodegradable bag of beans shipped to our factory." The inner plastic wrap is "home compostable, non GM packaging from a sustainable source." So far, a perfect fit for our city! Following the trend of information-rich labeling in premium chocolate, Askinosie tells consumers not only the percentage of cacao, but the origin of the bean (San Jose Del Tambo, Ecaudor), the variety (Arriba Nacional) and even the lead farmer's name (Vitaliano Saravia) and picture. All of this information is in an old-school, imperfect font, as though it was typed onto a bag of beans for a customs agent - not to lure moneyed chocolate connoisseurs.

Shawn Askinosie's explanation of his slogan "real people, real places" all sounds very good. Vitaliano is the real person who gathered and fermented the beans for this bar. Shawn works directly with farmers, rather than bean brokers, and guarantees they get fair prices, open books and a stake in the outcome. (He even pays higher than the Fair Trade market price.)

After I untie the bag, I realize that, like a box of Cracker Jacks, this bar comes with a prize - a map! I've seen maps on the outside of chocolate bars, but never as a separate insert. (hmm, is this causing more waste than the average bar?) The map is actually a little confusing, because it describes two separate spots: San Jose Del Tambo in Ecuador and Soconusco in Mexico. I'm left wondering whether this map is supposed to be a "one size fits all" for all Askinosie bars, of if this particular bar was made in both spots. Plus, the direction of the cute little airplane makes it look like the bar goes from Missouri to Mexico to Ecuador. Maybe I need to visit the web site and type in my "choc-o-lot" number. If only my son was a little older, this could make an excellent geography project!

www.askinosie.com is a fabulously designed web site. From a marketing point of view, Shawn seems to be doing everything right. Real enthusiasts can read about his former career as a criminal defense lawyer, and his craving for Slim Jims and Jimmy Hendrix on a cacao farm in Ecuador. But I still have some business to attend to - finding out the real origins of my bar. I type in the "choc-o-lot" number and voila, everything I'd ever want to know about this bar. A few interesting points stand out. Askinosie makes their own cocoa butter for each batch, from the exact same liquor as the bar. They don't add vanilla. And Shawn loves fried catfish with hush puppies. Seriously! The journey is a series of journal entries from November '06 to July '07. Most of them relate to the actual chocolate making process, but Shawn throws in quite a few tidbits from his Indiana Jones/Milton Hershey personal life.

After all this research, it's time to try the chocolate! I'll share my thoughts next week...

Instant Richart

2007-08-30T14:33:00.000-07:00

Imagine a world where your medicine was jelly beans, your watch made of licorice and your toothpaste? Chocolate.
The last time I visited Richart, I picked up what could only be described as chocolate toothpaste. They call it "Soloist - Mon Instant Richart." Richart has been around a long time, but they are one of the most innovative chocolate companies out there. They told me this product was designed for those who love filled chocolates but can't always carry them around.
I suppose that makes sense when the weather is hot (like any city in the summer other than SF!) or you are stuck on a wilderness expedition, miles away from chocolate loving civilization. So the Soloist is really the pure chocolate filling. And you can pick your flavor. I chose the "vanille en ganache" from Venezuela.

The label listed quite a few ingredients: creme, cacao, sirop de glucose, sucre, sorbitol, alcool, huile d'amande, vanille, lecithine de soja, carraghenanes. Pardon the French (literally), but this is a real French company, no translation provided. I'd be happier with a smaller, more natural sounding list, but I suppose this combination of ingredients means that my little tube could last quite some time.

Yesterday as I was rushing from one appointment to another, with no time for lunch, let alone dessert, I rememered my Soloist. Like a pack of gum, it was wedged into a corner compartment of my bag. And so I indulged. Would I have preferred a fresh truffle? Yes. But was this better than a cookie or brownie? Definitely. Will I let this get in the hands of my two-year-old? Not for a second!